Re-calculating......

Monday 10 June 2013

We're parked up on a large Aire just outside the village of St Denis d'Oleron, on the Ile d'Oleron, an island on the Atlantic coast, between Rochefort and Royan.  It's lovely to be beside the seaside again - it's where we belong.  I think our next trip will be coast hopping rather than inland.
Ile d'Oleron is joined to the mainland by a bridge just north of Marennes.  It's France's largest island after Corsica, a laidback, unaffected fishing island and coastal resort. It's a peaceful retreat of a patchwork of little villages, vineyards, pine forests and gleaming muddy tributaries lined with fishing boats.  This is exactly the sort of place we like to visit - it's similar to Ile de Re, but less pretentious - more shabby than chic but in a chilled out way.  Judging by the colour of some of the locals, the weather here has been much better than in some places.  When we arrived the sun was shining with a warm breeze.

That we made it here by 1800 is a bit of a miracle, as "That Woman" inside the Garmin decided to stop recognising lat/longs.  I thought it strange last night when I checked how long it would take to get here by plugging the lat/long into the satnav.  It said 2 hours which seemed too short but a quick look at the map showed a few dual carriageways, so I thought that was bringing the time down. When ready to leave the campsite in the morning I set up the satnav and off we went.  We had music playing as we went so I just followed "That Woman's" directions.  But after a couple of hours I felt we were heading in the wrong direction - I wasn't seeing the road signs I expected to see.  We pulled over and I checked the coordinates again for this Aire - all good.  But "That Woman" was telling us were were only 15 minutes from our destination, yet we were just south of Limoges, way off course by many tens of miles! Luckily I had downloaded a free satnav on to my iPhone - Nav Free France.  This is brilliant and was a life saver.  It even allowed us to set up as an RV to avoid the tiny roads "That Woman" kept taking us down.  We used this to redirect us to Ile d'Oleron and I also kept "That Woman" switched on (but muted thankfully) to compare - by this time she seems to have recognised where she should have sent us. However, she has this annoying habit of taking us through the centre of every town, rather than the 'Autres Directions' by-pass, plus she seemed to want to constantly take us off the main road into shortcut single-track roads.  The rest of the time she was "Re-Calculating"..... But the free iPhone satnav performed well and eventually we reached the Aire. The first one we chose was for 100 vans and facing the sea.  But entry was via credit card payment and it didn't accept my cards, so we had to find another, which is where we are now.

This Aire is very large - it takes up to 170 vans and in fact it's an ex-campsite, so has showers, toilets, washing-up facilities, washing machines and electric hook up - and all for just €9 per day - a bargain. We're pitched close to the facilities which is handy for washing up.  There are about 120 vans here at the moment but it doesn't feel like it as the pitches, although unmarked, are large.  And as it's an Aire, it's all motorhome people - friendly, relaxed and laid back - not like the TCPs!  Also, the emptying and top up facilities are easy to use and accessible - no Relais boxes or Jeton tokens needed.  We will certainly return to this one.  But the thing we love the most is that we're the only British in over a hundred, nearly all being French. And it's been lovely that they're friendly and talk to us and we try to understand and respond.

The Aire is about half a mile from the village of St Denis.  After the stress of being directed off course  by about an extra 3 hours driving, we arrived, plugged in, had a brew and then headed out to find somewhere for a well-deserved drink and dinner.  We walked down into the village, which was very quiet, but by the port and marina a couple of bars and restaurants were open.  We plopped down into chairs outside the first one, overlooking the marina.  Cathy ordered the local aperitif - Pineau, and I ordered the local 'abbaye' blonde beer called Grimbergen.  After a couple of those the world seemed a much softer place! Cathy had an entrecôte steak and I had longed-awaited Moules Frites.  We washed this down with some local Ile d'Oleron rose wine.  By then it was quite cloudy so we walked back to the van for a brew before turning in.

Oh, and to finish off today, I dropped and broke my camera! So after today there won't be any photos until we get home and I can upload from the iPhone camera.  But we hope to have a chilled out day tomorrow, even if the weather is a bit rainy it's still warm enough for shorts, t-shirt and flip-flops.  Plus Cathy is desperate to give the van a good spring clean.  We need a day with no driving.  After this relaxing day we'll be heading north, to reach Calais by Friday night.

Lovely translation!

A lovely local beer

The large Aire in St Denis

Tried it twice and didn't like it

Sunday 9 June 2013

Well, that title got your attention didn't it?  Wash out your dirty minds!  We're parked on an ACSI campsite in the village of Brantome, in the Perigord Vert region of the Dordogne.  It's a lovely, peaceful spot and we're about 30 ft from the River Dronne.  This is one of the best chub rivers in France and I didn't bring my fishing tackle!

The reason for the title is this is our second campsite this trip and Cathy is most definitely unimpressed with the ablutions, particularly as the shower cubicles are mixed! Combine this with luke warm showers and no room to swing a cat, she's had enough of campsites and is happy to use the onboard facilities from now on.  The only reasons we came to a campsite were for electric hook-up to charge up our various gadgets - mainly the kindles and camera battery, but also to grab some wi-fi time. This site has wi-fi coverage all over, so I'm sat in the van under full lighting writing this. Normally I'd be typing in darkness to save our batteries.

We both woke at about 0700 this morning, mainly due to the village church bells going all Tourettes on us - I counted the dongs (ooh er missus!) and stopped counting at 23, so decided it was time to get up.  Cathy wanted to go off for a walk and do some sketching and I wanted to head out on the bike.  She had a great walk above the town and apparently could have walked for miles in the countryside - definitely something we'll do when we return.  But it was her turn for morning baguette fetching, so she cut short her travels.  I headed out following the Dordogne, out of the village and into open countryside.  It was rolling hills so the short inclines were followed by some fast, freewheeling fun.  I was out for about an hour and covered about 17 miles. The scenery was glorious - honeycomb-coloured stone buildings between the river and the cliffs, plus many chateaux high up on the hills.  Returning to the van I had a chat with the elderly couple in the van next door.  They spend half the year in the Isle of Man, and the remaining half living in their house outside Limoges, plus travelling in their motorhome - sounds idyllic.  After breakfast of eggs and baguette I cleaned the bike, sprayed it with WD40 and fastened it back on the rack at the back of the van.  A quick shower, fluids topped upped and emptied, we headed off.

After buying a few victuals for the day, we drove up the hill to Jardins de Marqueyssac, just a couple of km away.  The gardens and chateaux sit on top of a wooded gorge that rises above the Dordogne.  It's quirky and maze-like, reminding me a little of Portmerion. Although the gardens were originally laid out in the seventeenth century, they were extensively restored in the 1990s.  Three paths lead through the grounds to the Belvedere, jutting out from the cliff with fantastic views over the river towards La Roque-Gageac and, in the opposite direction, Castelnaud.  We spent a few hours wandering around - it was very warm and sultry and, although sunny, we expected rain.

Leaving the gardens we headed North West towards our current stop in Brantome. This is one of the most tranquil and beautiful parts of the Dordogne, with water-lilied and weeping willowed riverside gardens.  Dinner was grilled lamb chops with garlic, rosemary and (Anglesey) sea salt, with a homemade ratatouille.  We plan to have a walk around the town tomorrow before heading off to the Atlantic Coast.  We're ready for some seaside time now and I'm definitely ready for some seafood. The cicadas are in full voice outside, so once I've added the photos and uploaded the blog it'll be time to crash out until Cathy kicks me out in the morning to fetch our breakfast baguette, pre-ordered from reception.

My French doghouse!

Preparing dinner while the blog uploads on wi-fi

A great chub river -must take my tackle next time

Third Time Lucky

Saturday 8 June 2013

We're parked in an Aire in the village of La Roque Gageac, right next to the Dordogne river in the Dordogne region.  It's a beautiful spot with the river one one side and high cliffs on the other.  The old houses and the chateau, which shelter under the overhanging cliffs, are made of a lovely ochre-coloured sandstone, with steep, sometimes turreted slate rooves. There are also a number of large caves above the houses which suggests some troglodyte occupation in the past. There about 12 other vans here, with room for 20, but if it was full it'd be very cosy and we wouldn't get out until those around us shifted.

We had planned to stay at another Aire in the village of Domme, but on arrival we saw all the pitches are heavily sloped, not even our ramps would have helped.  So we plugged in the co-ordinates for another, in the village of Montfort Vitrac, again next to the river.  But there were no signs or sight of the Aire, despite trying every road leading off the main road.  We think it no longer exists - maybe the local campsite owner pressurised the Marie to shut it down.  So instead we headed 8 minutes up the road to this one and I'm so glad we did as it's beautiful and peaceful - Third Time Lucky.

We were awake early this morning and, after a quick brew, drove off, planning to head for Rodez.  On the way we stopped off at the McDonalds in Millau to use their free wifi to upload the blog and send & receive emails.  The wifi was good but the food was rubbish! We stopped off in Rodez for lunch, the capital of the Aveyron region, with a large hill-top cathedral and old town.  We were expecting to find old squares filled with restaurants, but there was a distinct lack of eateries.  We ended up in a 'British' pub, but eating great French food, plus the Criterium du Dauphine bike race was on Eurosport - result!

We had planned to stay near the medieval village of Conques tonight, which was famous for being on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. However it had turned cloudy and it was starting to rain heavily, so we decided to continue to head west whilst the weather was dodgy.  And so now we're enjoying the peace and quiet.  It's still cloudy, although it's breaking and it's very warm out - thunderstorm weather?

Today on our journey we passed the village of Roquefort, famous for the cheese which gives you dreams if eaten in excess, plus the town of Agen, famous for the prunes which give you the sh..... - er keep you regular - if eaten in excess.  We're now in foie gras, confit de canard and walnut country.  Oh and Bergerac wine.  I had to buy a bottle to get change for the parking meter, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered - honest!

This evening, we took a pre-dinner stroll up the tiny alleyways between and above the houses.  There is some beautiful planting, including palm trees and huge bamboos, as well as many grapevines.  With roses, honeysuckle and jasmine, Cathy tells me the scent was amazing (I still have no sense of taste or smell, which is killing my gastronomic experience).  We're now back at the van, having eating a light meal and enjoying a glass of fizz.  There's two French families opposite, with an awning between their vans and large dining table under, enjoying a noisy but fun-filled dinner.  It's nice to see them having fun and the children running around, much better than Those Caravan People, or TCPs as they're now known to us!  Tomorrow we want to take a walk along the river before breakfast and then maybe visit Jardins de Marqueyssac, about 6km from here, sitting high on the cliffs overlooking the Dordogne and our current Aire.  After that we'll decide where to head next, but I think we'll stay in this area, or certainly around maybe Bergerac for a couple of days - it's lovely.

Thought for the day: What's the etiquette for waving at other motorhomes as they drive past?  We were waved at on our first day in France and now reciprocate, waving at all vans we pass.  Some return the wave (or beat us to it), some don't, or perhaps they just don't see it.  And does the type of wave signify something?  Some wave frantically as if to say "isn't this fun!?", same give a full palm out hand raise (like a policeman signalling you to stop) and some just raise one finger whilst their hand stays on the steering wheel (are these the experienced, cool camper vanners who have passed the advanced waving course?). I also wonder if the TCPs wave to each other - they certainly like shouting on campsites.

Aire at La Roque Gageac

Aire from path above the village

When Knights were bold

Friday 7 June 2013

We're parked up in the motorhome parking area (no facilities) at La Couverteraide.  It's been a sort of crap day - I damaged the van by hitting a low bollard in a narrow street (at very slow speed as I was stationary and then slowly moved forward).  As it was so low I just didn't see it.  I feel upset, ashamed, sorry and ready to just come home, but I'm going to try and put it behind me and not mention it again.

We left Vallon after emptying and topping up - I finally managed to work out the mini-Relais to buy some water - then we stopped at the Intermarche for food and fuel.  The drive today was mainly on winding mountain roads.  We stopped at a lovely spot for lunch, sitting at a stone table with stone stools and a fantastic view down the gorge.  We even had our napkins out.  We had planned to find a swimming spot, but earlier events prevented that, so instead we headed for our night stop.

La Couverteraide is a large 12th Century fortified village built by the Knights Templar.  I'm fascinated by their short existence and history and always try to visit sites where they lived.  This site is large and very atmospheric.  You can just imagine them being around the site 900 years ago; it must have changed very little.  Unfortunately we arrived quite late so we didn't spend much time there. A few hours sat on a very old step soaking up the sun and atmosphere would have been just the job today.  Instead it was 7 hours in the van.  There are very few vans parked here, there's no artificial light and it's all quiet except for the birds and cicadas.  It is a good deal cooler than Vallon though.  We've eaten and cleared up and I've decided to have an early night to put this day behind me.  Tomorrow we'll continue to head north west, and hopefully a happier day.

Great lunch stop

Knights Templar castle at La Couverteraide

Cathy's wild about swimming

Thursday 6 June 2013

We're still parked in the Aire at Vallon Pont d'Arc.  I popped into town this morning to buy our baguettes and the weekly market was on, so I also bought some oranges, apricots and a kilo of local cherries.  Today we planned to achieve Cathy's dream of wild swimming in a river.  We have a great book called Wild Swimming in France, which has hundreds of locations to choose from, including lat/long, parking area and directions to walk to them.

Today was easy as I had already recced the route yesterday when out on my bike.  We packed our bags and picnic and headed off down the road that follows the Gorge.  It's a 3 mile walk along a fairly busy road  and two tunnels through the rocks.  Along the river there are loads of campsites, snack bars and canoe or kayak hire companies.  We eventually reached the sign for the Plage de Pont d'Arc and dropped down to the water's edge, very close to the arch.  It was early so only one other person was there, the water was flat calm, the sky clear blue and it was very quiet - bliss!  We unpacked and went for a paddle - it felt chilly, but no worse than a warm day in the Solent.  So we eventually braved a full dip.  There was quite a current flowing right to left but close in it was quite safe.  We spent some time swimming, sunbathing, reading and watching the kayaks work their way down the river.

After lunch we decided to move to the beach on the other side of the arch.  This was busier, but there was still plenty of room and loads of soft sand and shade under the trees.  We had a snooze which was lovely.  I'm feeling the effects of hay fever at the moment so just had a chill out, but Cathy went for another swim and sat at the water's edge soaking up the view.  It's always been her dream to enjoy more wild swimming and so today was a special day for her.

We started the hot walk back and, on reaching the Aire, she went off to open up the van, sort out and shower and I headed into town.  I wanted to buy a Jeton token to top up water tomorrow but the tourist office was already shut (it was gone 6pm).  I bought a few things for tonight then decided I'd earned a beer, so sat in the square with a small but very refreshing Kronenbourg for 15 minutes of 'me' time.  Back at the van all was sorted, washing done and hanging to dry in the hot sunshine.  After a shower I prepared dinner then we sat out with a Pastis and chatted about the day.  I BBQ'd the Toulouse sausages, which we had with an onion & tomato salad.  As always, we were the only ones sat out in the warm evening air - everyone else was in their van watching TV - what's WRONG with them!  We're now all washed up, cleared away and ready to sleep after a hot but very relaxing day.

We're ready to move on now after a relaxing day with no driving. Tomorrow will be a shorter transit as we startbto head west. We hope to get  in some more wild swimming before deciding where to stay. It may be another day or two before we have wifi access to update the blog, but we're in no hurry.  We're well into holiday mode now.

Random thought of the day.  There were quite a few dogs around the gorge.  I noticed (as you do) that all the male dogs were 'intact', unlike most British male dogs that are done at an early stage.  I wondered if this is a French thing? Maybe the average French man thinks this is too much, even for a dog!

Wild Swimming at last!

Quiet reflection

Burning, I mean BBQing the Merguez