Back to the 80s

Wednesday 5 June 2013

We're parked in a large Aire in the town of Vallon Pont d'Arc, at the northern end of the Ardeche Gorge and only 3 miles from the famous Pont d'Arc, a 54m high arch spanning the gorge that the river itself has cut through the limestone.

We left the campsite after an early breakfast, having dropped and refilled liquids.  We didn't really enjoy the campsite life, it was too regimented and it felt like everyone was watching us, especially the weird caravan dwelllers!  Why do they all shout at each other across the site, instead of walking to each other to converse normally?  It's made us realise that we are more Aire and wild camping people, campsites being used once a week for longer showers, washing clothes and recharging electrical items.

It was another long drive today, but we plan to stay here for 2 nights, then keep our daily transits down to about 2 hours, as we slowly head clockwise.  If the middle of France is a clock face, then we're currently at about 5 o'clock.  The temperature gradually climbed as we headed south and peaked at about 83'F when we arrived at Vallon. On the journey we crossed a few mountain ranges, mainly on very long, hair-pin roads, with fabulous views.  We also saw a few mountains still capped with snow.

I was able to pay for this Aire with my credit card - €6 - which saved a trip into town to find somewhere to buy the Jeton tokens.  This made life a little easier.  I even used my card to pay for a German couple in exchange for Euros - see, I can get along with other nationalities!  On arrival we had a brew and then I decided to go for a bike ride, mainly to see how far it is to the Arch, but also to suss out the town, as we've decided to act like real holiday makers tonight and eat out.  Cycling in the hot sunshine was bliss and I was soon flying down the road that runs alongside the Gorge.  It's very touristy with loads of campsites, grockle shops & fast food joints, but the view more than makes up for this.  I carried on for about a mile past the Arch then turned and headed back into town.  Vallon is a lovely town with some old squares with bars and restaurants. We'll certainly find somewhere good to eat tonight.  After a couple of circuits of the one way system, I acted like a local and went down a one way street to get back to the Aire.  Cathy was reading, sat in the shade behind the motorhome.  I drank some water, had another brew, sorted out my bike and kit and then relaxed in the sun before getting ready to eat out.

It's been great getting back to the 80s - in degrees Fahrenheit!  Tomorrow we plan to walk to the beaches by the Arch and spend the day there, relaxing, perhaps swimming if the water's not too icy and maybe having a canoe trip.  When we left the Aire for dinner at 8pm the sun was still high and the temperature in the 80s. We walked up the hill and had a walk around the shops, looking for something for the Tacky Shack.  We came across a great, hippie, boho bar, lots of plants and fairy lights - Cathy loved it! See the photos below.  We decided to eat at a buzzy restaurant down a side street.  I had a starter of smoked salmon and foie gras - I'm sure if I had any sense of taste or smell it would have been wonderful. Cathy ordered Caillette Ardechoise, which was a local speciality of pork and herbs faggot.  I had a rare steak.  Both came with an aubergine salad and 'La Truffade' a local speciality of sliced potatoes fried in lard then mixed with some local gruyere-type cheese - sounds horrible but was delicious.  We accompanied this with a local Cabernet Merlot red.  Whilst eating this, Cathy was shat on from a bird at a great height - we should have bought a lotto ticket there and then!  We finished with Isle Flottante for C and a coffee for me.  Full and tired after a long day, we walked down in the warm evening air back to the motorhome.  It's very quiet and dark on the Aire; I think we'll sleep well tonight .  This is the life!

Pont d'Arc - Ardeche

Vallon Pont d'Arc Aire

Cathy's type of bar!

Heading for the Hills

Tuesday 4 June 2013

We're on a ACSI campsite called Le Viginet, just outside the village of St Nectaire, in the region of Puy de Dome, Auvergne.

I woke up feeling a little tender this morning thanks to the very generous hospitality of Jacqui and Andy.  To say we were well fed and watered is an understatement.  Following Kir Royale in the garden, we enjoyed another glass inside their living room, which used to be the village shop.  It's a wonderful old house that has been lovingly restored, yet retains some great original features, such as the shop floor tiles  and wooden counter area floors.  They also have a large basement where lots of wine is stored for someone who runs a Chambre d'Hote boat on the canal.  It was a lovely evening with delicious food, good wine and plenty of tales of our Navy days, with much eye-rolling from Jacqui & Cathy as the long-suffering wives!  Thank you Jacqui & Andy for making us so welcome in your home and looking after us so well.  Good luck with the shop and any other venture you turn your hand to.

As we had to be off the port car park by 0900 (so said the harbourmaster - I think! - when he knocked on our door at 0815) we decided to have breakfast later after finding a boulangerie. So we headed off towards Clermont-Ferrand and the volcanic mountains of the Massif Central.  It was another 4 hour drive, but this time we knew we'd be heading for the mountains and warmer weather. We drove through Vichy and just a few miles short of the campsite, stopped off in the village of Champieux, built alongside a fast flowing river.  We'd seen a small, old chateau on a hill above the river, surrounded by old-walls containing lovely potagers.  So we parked in the motorhome aire and walked back into the village. We climbed the steep narrow streets and eventually joined a rough path that led to old stone steps.  It was here that the tiny potagers were, built on small terraces up against the rocks and old walls.  They contained mainly flowers and herbs,  plus a few fruit trees and bushes.  At the very top was the very old Chateau de Marchidial.  It wasn't open but the views over Champieux and the surrounding hills was lovely.  It helped that the hot sun beamed down on us!  Heading back to the motorhome we stopped off at Intermarche to top up our victuals before driving to the campsite.

The site is nestled on the hillside, surrounded by trees and with individual pitches separated by hedges.  It's very quiet and peaceful, the sun is shining and the cicadas are chirping.  The electric's plugged in, we've had a brew, Cathy's made the tomato & onion salad and I've readied the BBQ for lamb chops and merguez sausages.  I just about passed the Krypton Factor testing of assembling the outdoor table - I should have asked Ian for a demo! - and I'll be in cooking mode shortly.  There's wi-fi here so after dinner we'll wander up to the reception to post these blog entries.  After a very enjoyable night last night, with plenty of alcohol and laughter I think we'll both sleep really well tonight.  I had thought about a bike ride tomorrow, but the steep mountain roads will be too much for me.  I'll have to wait until we find somewhere flatter.  Tomorrow we're thinking of heading towards the Ardeche. It might be a bit chilly for wild swimming - let's see......

The old chateau in Champieux

Campsite at Le Viginet

Catching up with an old friend in Burgundy

Monday 3 June 2013

We survived our first night on an aire and slept until 0700 - late for us.  The bin men arrived at about 0500 to empty the wheelie bins and made plenty of noise, but we drifted off again.  I went out at about 0730 for our breakfast croissants and lunchtime baguette.  The aire didn't say where to buy the Jeton, so I asked at the Tabac.  He directed me to the small supermarket on the corner next to the aire (called The Casino!).  I used this to plug into electricity to charge up the iPad and also to provide water for topping up our tank, soaking myself and the can next door in the process!  After breakfast and with all tanks refilled and emptied, we patiently waited for the commune gang to place flower troughs on the windowsills above us with a cherry picker.  After a friendly wave we pulled off and headed into Epernay to fuel up, before plugging in the satnav coordinates for our next stop - Vandanesse en Auxois, about 40 minutes south east of Dijon, where we planned to meet up with Jacqui & Andy.

Soon after leaving Epernay we were deep into champagne country - lots of family owned companies - most of which appeared to be Father & Daughter(s).  We passed a very strange building, with half a car embedded half way up the building wall, a deep sea fishing trawler and an executive jet on a stick!  The country roads were lovely and quiet and when they become even more 'tumbleweed-like' we realised all the locals had headed home for lunch. So we pulled over on the side of the road, next to a sunny hillside of vines, for our usual lunch of baguette, pâté, rillette and salad, with a brew of course!

Heading off again we topped the hill to look down on Lac de Panthier, a large freshwater lake with an ACSI campsite if we couldn't anywhere in the village to park.  Audenesse village spans the Canal de Bourgogne and, luckily for us the 'port' (a boat berthing area next to the bridge and lock) had a large parking area in which 3 motorhomes were already resting - it appears to be an unofficial aire.  We parked up between two to 'bags' our pitch.  We had a slight list to starboard but decided we could live with that.  We walked the 100m to the bridge, crossed the road and met with Jacqui at her Salon de The.  It was lovely to have a fresh brew sat in their tea room garden. Another English couple came along and sat with us.  They keep a boat on the canal (more like the sort of floating gin palace you see on the sea!) and were several weeks into their trip.  They last visited the tea room 4 years ago, but remembered the lovely, homemade cakes.  This they enjoyed with a pichet of cold rose - I could hear the cogs turning in Cathy's head - cake & wine, a winning combination!  We arranged with Jacqui to head back to their house - which is what used to be the village store and next to the tea room- at about 1900 and want for a stroll along the canal.  Heading back we crossed the bridge and a car pulled up alongside - it was Andy just back from work in Dijon. A quick chat and wave and we headed back to the motorhome for a sit in the sun and to get ready for tonight.  One of the vans had left so we moved into their vacant and level space.

Andy and I were in the Royal Navy together, both Writers who were later promoted to officer.  Although we never served together, our paths crossed a few times. On the last occasion he and his family had just returned from a tour in Naples, they had already moved to France and Andy was seeing out his final few months working in the Fleet HQ in Portsmouth, where I also worked.  He came over for dinner one evening and we swapped addresses, never thinking we'd meet.  When I realised we'd be heading close to their house I got in touch and we were kindly invited to stay for dinner.  I asked if they wanted anything from Blighty and the only thing was crunchy peanut butter!  I'd also bought a bottle of champagne so took that along too, the 3 minute walk from motorhome to house didn't warm it too much!

You see some funny sights!

Our lunch stop view

Our first spot - before moving across the car park

Jacqui & Andy's home - the old village shop

Our first ever time wild camping

A time to reflect

Sunday 2 June 2013

We're parked up at an Aire alongside the river at Mareuil sur Ay.  It's small with only 8 spaces and there were only 3 spaces left when we arrived at about 1245.  Judging by the number of motorhomes that arrived and left disappointed, it's clearly popular. We have a lovely view over the canal and the sun is still shining at 2100.

We were awake at 0515 this morning to clear blue skies and, after a quick breakfast, we packed up and left the car park in Cite Europe at 0730.  It was a fairly long drive today - 5 hours - but we wanted to head south towards the sunshine.  Not long after leaving Calais, the many Commonwealth War Graves signs reminded us that we were in the area that saw much fighting in World War One. Although we've seen the cemeteries on the TV and in books, the first one we saw for real took our breath away.  The sight of so many gravestones, perfectly aligned and so well tended, is a stark reminder of the pain and futility of war.  We stopped at the Cabaret Rouge British Military Cemetery, just outside the village of Souchez. We took a quiet walk around in clear blue skies with skylarks singing above us - it was very peaceful. Most of the dead were in their early 20s.  They had been buried with their mates from the same regiment. What was even more poignant was the vast number of graves of unknown soldiers. We only covered one small area of the cemetery and this was only one of many hundreds of similar cemeteries, but we wanted to pay our respects in some small way.  We carried on with our journey south and as we past one of the final, large cemeteries, Emilie Sande's version of 'Imagine' started to play on the iPod.  A fitting finale to a sobering and reflective morning.

We carried on south, entering the champagne region and into the city of Reims.  As we passed,the champagne houses of Tattinger and Veuve Cliquout, I had to fight hard to keep Cathy locked in the motorhome to prevent her leaping out and scaling their walls!  We carried on, past the town of Epernay before arriving in Mareuil sur Ay. Although it's a fairly small village, it's surrounded by vine covered hills and there are many champagne houses in the village.  Sadly, like most things in France on a Sunday, they were all shut!  After a quick lunch of pâté, rillette, cheese & baguette, we took our chairs and kindles and spent the afternoon reading and snoozing by the riverside.  Later in the early evening we had a walk around the village to stick our noses through the large, wrought iron gates of the champagne houses and returned to the motorhome for something to eat.  As the sun sets, the wind has dropped and we're ready for sleep.  Tomorrow's first job is to find somewhere to buy a Jeton token so we can top up with fresh water.  Then we'll empty tanks and be on our way.  I've not felt like a bike ride yet. With two long driving days I think I'll go my first spin in a couple of days, when I'm feeling a little more relaxed and in the holiday zone.  Tomorrow we plan to meet up with some friends who run a Tea Shop in a small village by the Canal near Dijon. So it'll be another fairly long day in transit but we'll be a few hours further south and several degrees warmer!

Cabaret Rouge British Cemetery

There name liveth for ever more

Our first ever Aire

Champagne anyone?

Crevettes in Calais

Day 1 - Saturday 1 June 2013

Having left the house in the safe hands of Nicola & Chris, we picked up the van at 0800, thanks to a bright and breezy Ian - he clearly enjoys early morning starts!  We unpacked and put all our stuff away then hit the road.  It was a pretty boring, gruelling drive. The M25 was as usual - packed - so we stopped on the M20 services for a quick bite to eat and a cuppa.  Refreshed, we carried on for the remaining 27 miles to the tunnel. It was just as well we left so early as we only had about 40 minutes to spare on arrival at the terminal. This was our first trip on the tunnel.  Cathy enjoyed it (especially as she could have a lie down and a stretch) but I definitely prefer the ferry - being under the sea rather than on it isn't natural for me!

As we we arrived in France quite late we decided to overnight at the Motorhome Parking at the Cite de Europe. Not the best of views, but the Carrefour's open until 2200, which means we can stock up on a few essentials to get us through our first 24 hours, particularly with tomorrow being Sunday. We popped into the hypermarket and bought a few goodies.  Dinner tonight was Crevettes with a homemade garlic mayo, tomato, onion & pepper salad, plus some baguette and lovely sea salt butter.  A glass or to of Beajoulais helped wash it down, finished off with some fresh fruit.  I noticed the fridge gas light was flashing so sent a quick text email to Ian - he replied quick as a flash to tell me to switch it off and back on again. That sorted it and I remembered him telling me to do this on Wednesday!

So we're stocked up on provisions.  There are quite a few motorhomes parked here, most of them British, so this a popular stopover. It's now 2100 and we're both shattered, it's been a long day.  So I think we'll be asleep soon, then up early for a quick breakfast and then head south towards Epernay and our first full day in France.

Families Day at ATR Pirbright

Chris is now half way through his Phase 1 Basic training at Pirbright. Since he left on the 18th of March we've had the expected highlights and lowlights texts and FB updates, but he seems to be cracking on - fingers crossed!

Last Thursday - 2 May - was the half way point and Families Day.  Cathy and I travelled down the night before and stayed in a Travelodge in Farnborough. It was a long journey to make after a full day's work, so the Wetherspoons pub next door was a welcome site when we arrived just after 10pm.  After a good night's sleep and a mediocre breakfast we set off for Pirbright. The organisation and welcome was very good and we joined the rest of the families at the Cafe before making our way to the Lecture Theatre. Here the Lt Col in charge of 2 ATR welcomed us before Major Lewin, the OC told us what the recruits had  been up to for the past 7 weeks. She also introduced the other staff, including the Sergeant Major in his kilt!  After that we were split into 3 groups.  We started off with a weapons display then moved on to watch some PT.  After that we moved on to witness some fieldcraft, which was where Chris was "on stag" with helmet & SA80 in a basha - trust him to be lying down on the job!  We also got to see the new rat packs - much better than in my day.

After that we moved to the church where the Padre (or Bish in Naval parlance), along with the WO2 from the Welfare Team talked to us about pastoral care. After that it was off to the parade ground to witness all the recruits being presented with their regimental beret and cap badge - a proud moment for them all.  Chris looked very good in his 9th/12th Lancers beret.  After a pep talk from the Major, followed by a stern talking to by the Sergeant Major (the demon drink, don't take drugs, don't be late back on Sunday), they were all quick marched off to the barrack block to get changed and escape for the weekend. Our return journey was marred by breaking down on the M6, but following a breakdown truck lift home, via the Anderton MOT Centre and the Stagg Bar, we eventually got home and Chris could relax with a beer.

He spent some time catching up on sleep and some shopping on Saturday - when he 'forgot' to take his wallet so I had to pay!  In the afternoon some family came over for a BBQ and then is last night of freedom. Sunday morning I drove him to Crewe station to catch the first train back via Birmingham - how he ended up in Colwyn Bay I shall never know!  I think remedial map reading for him!  He eventually made it back 2 hours adrift but seems to have blagged it.  Today it's been very hot and sunny in Barnton, so I would imagine his 4 mile combat run in Surrey was a bit warm!  Tonight they all get drug tested to make sure they listened to the Sgt Major - anyone who fails will be discharged.

We thought the Families Day was very well organised; all the staff were friendly, approachable and seemed to want all the recruits to be successful. Chris now has another 7 weeks of hard graft, but interspersed with an adventurous week in Sennybridge, Wales, so some fun time too.  We have everything crossed that he will continue to "crack on" so we can travel down again for his Passing Off Parade on 21 June - that will be a day to remember.

Busy weekend in Gosport

We were down in Gosport last weekend.  It was lovely to see Ann & Brian on Friday and a shame that we couldn't stay longer.  Thanks for the (early) birthday present, the Winter Tonic and the seeds and we hope you have a chance to come up and stay with us soon.  We really should try the yoga lessons over Skype!  We also hope you enjoyed your weekend in Cardiff (and Happy Birthday to Brian on the Saturday).

It was also fun to see Jambo (and Mr J-P) on Friday night - it's a shame Jambo can't read texts as I'm sure she would have realised Ray and I were in The Old Ship, whereas she and Mr J-P were in the Bun Penny!  This was soon resolved and I enjoyed the odd pint or three of Type 42.  Cathy also enjoyed meeting up with the 'Littlewood's Coven' in the Castle Tavern to celebrate Nora's birthday.

On Saturday we had breakfast at the Bayside Cabin on Stokes Bay and then had a walk along the Bay up to Gilkicker Point; we were interested to see how the new apartments were progressing.  But apart from cutting down a few trees and bushes very little had changed.  Then we popped over to Denvilles to meet up with Jane & Ron, the new (and proud) grandparents of Jasmine. She is a lovely baby and very much at home with Grandma and Grandad.

Heading back to Gosport it was a quick change and off to Gunwharf for something to eat.  We thought the Marshman's should try 'something spicy' so we ended up in Wagamama - hopefully it didn't upset their constitution too much!  Heading back to the ferry we bumped into Paul Fudge, good to see him looking so well and happy.

Early on Sunday morning Ray headed off early for his first TT of the year and after breakfast we headed off to pick up Chris (and all his stuff) to stay with us for a couple of weeks until he joins the Army.  It was a good job I booked an estate hire car as he had more stuff then I remembered!  On the way out we stopped off at J-P Towers to see Jambo (plus Chris & Michelle) for a welcome cup of tea and chat before hitting the road North.

It was a very quick and busy but fun-filled weekend and we'll be heading back later this year for birthday & wedding celebrations, plus hopefully a spin around the New Forest in the Rattler.  Thanks again Ray & Julie for putting up with us and we look forward to meeting up with all our south coast friends again soon.

Stokes Bay - chilly but relaxing walk

'Something Spicy' for the weekend!?

I'm NOT eating that!!

Ray or a Basking Shark?

Tucking In

Yum!

Tall Ship Challenge yachts at Gunwharf Quays

Spinnaker Tower at night

Monkey Hugs!

The tongue is out!

Deep in conversation - must be about cycling

There's that tongue again!