St Denis d'Oleron

Thursday 2 July 2015

Time for a bit of information about Ile d'Oleron.  The island lies just off the coast between Royan and La Rochelle and has, since 1966, been linked to the mainland by a long, curving road bridge, the longest in France at almost 2 miles.  Except for Corsica, it's France's biggest island - 18 miles long and 3.6 miles wide.  The white houses of Oleron are surrounded by mimosa, oleander, tamarisk, fig trees and the grey-green spines of agave.  Everywhere hollyhocks spring up through seemingly tiny gaps between the concreted ground and walls.  Oysters are its main crop, along with some early fruit and vegetables and the cultivation of vines.  The vineyards, mainly grouped inland around St Pierre and St Georges, produce white and rosé wines with an agreeable, slightly iodised flavour.  

Some naval related history:  The Rules of Oleron - in 1199, the 76 year old Eleanor of Aquitaine returned to her island possession.  She set about restoring law and order.  The dangerous Côte Sauvage, for instance, had long been at the mercy of wreckers who looted and pillaged ships driven ashore and robbed any survivors from their crews - a practice euphemistically known as le droit d'aubaine (windfall rights).  Eleanor decreed that henceforth such brigands must be punished: "They must be put in the sea and plunged under water repeatedly until they are half dead, and then taken out and stoned to death as one would dispose of wolves or mad dogs".  Subsequently she set up a set of rules "concerning the seas, the vessels sailing upon them, their masters, crew companions and also merchants".  This maritime code, known as Les Rôles d'Oleron", served as a basis for all subsequent charters regulating conduct on the high seas (such as the International Law of the Sea, which I came to know well).  The island was occupied by the Germans in 1940 and liberated on 30 April and 1 May 1945, though not without difficulty.  Overcoming the stubborn resistance of the 15,000-string garrison and forcing a German surrender required a large-scale combined operation, which was code named Jupiter.

Now on with today's travels.  The wind blew up again in the night and it rained quite heavily on and off; I had to get up again to batten down the hatches (shut the skylights!) but the morning was calm and warm, still with some high cloud.   I was awake quite early so got up, dressed and made a pot of coffee while waiting for the bread van to toot its horn.  Soon enough he arrived and I wondered over to join the queue of old boys sent out by their wives to buy the bread (life as an old chap is hard).  He'd already sold out of croissants, so I bought two bavettes, one for breakfast and one for later.  It was hot sat outside and we enjoyed our breakfast saying 'Bonjour' to our neighbours as they walked by and acknowledging the occasional "Bon Appetit!".   Soon it was time to pack and and secure the van.  With waste dumped and the water container topped up, Cathy punched in the code and we drove down to the Super U to buy some food, water and local wine.  I then drove us back past the aire and north along the coastal road I cycled yesterday.  We stopped off at a roadside shack to buy some local salt, before checking out the aire at Boyardville.  It looked nice - grass pitches with plenty of pine trees for shade, but a little too close to the road and not close enough to the beach.  So we continued on to St Denis.  We stayed on the aire here for a couple of nights when we first came to France in a motorhome two years ago.  But we wanted to check the beach to make sure it's sandy before deciding.  On the way down to the town we saw the municipal campsite, right next to the beach.  Although large (400 pitches) it also looked welcoming, with plenty of room between pitches and shade from pine and tamarisk trees.  We parked up and walked down to the marina.  On the way back I got some cash from the ATM and by then we'd already decided to use the municipal site.  I checked us in for four nights and we found a lovely pitch; quite flat, right next to a sandy path to the beach and by all the facilities.  It's south facing, protected from the prevailing wind and, although in direct sun, has a small tamarisk tree with plenty of shade for two chairs.  As we're here for a while we 'made camp', putting out the groundsheet, fitting the external silver screens over the windscreen and cab windows and fetching tables and chairs out.  We also rolled out and secured the awning.  We had some lunch sat outside, again enjoying the friendliness of the French - they really do know how to relax and make the most of a peaceful spot.  We took the path to the beach and within 30 seconds were on the sand.  The tide was coming back in and we could tell it would be a great swimming beach, a bit rough and windy but lovely clear, cool water. After a walk along and back we walked around the site to get our bearings, after I let reception know we were on pitch 72.  There are plenty of facilities on site, including a good shop, bars and a small restaurant.  And we're only a few minutes' walk from the centre of town.  The next few days are going to be very relaxing.

We spent the rest of the afternoon reading and snoozing in the shade of the tamarisk tree before hitting the beach, now almost at high tide.  So just 30 seconds away the warm sand welcomed us and the tide was in.  It was quite breezy so felt a bit cooler on the beach, but all is relative - still a lot warmer than an afternoon at home!  After a read it was time for a swim.  The waves were high and the water was cooler than we've been used to, but we were soon in, battling the swell and the tide, plus the seaweed wrapping itself around our legs and body!  Swim done, Cathy laid out to dry off while I walked along the beach up to the WW2 gun emplacement and back.  It was quite cool in the wind so we walked back to the van, to shelter and warm sun.  A brew later, Cathy showered in the van, while I walked to the shower block - straight in, warm and powerful.  I also dhobied my swimming shorts, pockets full of small stones and seaweed.  Back at the van, Cathy had made the salad while I grilled the lamb chops on the Cadac, enjoyed under the awning with some bread and rosé for Cathy (called Les Tourettes!), local red for me.  As we ate we watched a nice little chap (maybe 3 or 4) kick his inflatable ball around then ride on his pedal-less bike.  He was not happy if anyone touched his ball and even less happy when called in for his tea, nevertheless he got stuck in to his food.  The last time we saw him he looked fit to drop, but was heading out with his family to the small funfair between the campsite and the town.  Cathy sorted the washing up while I went to ditch the gash; I walked nearly twice around the campsite before realising that what I thought was a shower block was actually the gash compartment!  

It's a bit chillier tonight, still OK for shorts and flip-flops but with a fleece.  Still we sat outside with a brew and a biscuit.  Cathy's just gone off to take some sunset photos at the beach.  It's been a good day, a short commute from one site to the next, a lovely pitch right next to the beach and with shade if we need it.  We both feel very chilled out.  I look forward to another bike ride tomorrow and no doubt Cathy will enjoy reading, snoozing and sunbathing.  Lovely, chilled out, relaxing, warm, sunny day.  We're also turning a nice shade of brown - sunshine, not muck!

Aptly named wine!

Relaxing lunch

Pitched up ready to relax

Ou est la mer?

Wednesday 1 July 2015

When we went to bed last night it was hot and stifling, so much so that we swapped around in the bed so our heads were close to the window, better to catch any breeze.  But in the early hours the wind really got up and I'd made that schoolboy error of assuming the weather would stay calm, so left the awning in place.  So at 0115 there we were, half dressed and outside the van, lifting pegs and winding in the awning!  Then it was thundering and lightning, with a few drops of rain, so skylights were dropped and washing brought in - an unexpected awakening!  But the storm came to nothing, except to cool down the air and we slept well after that.

It was fresher and cooler in the morning, relatively speaking.  Probably still in the mid-20s at dawn, it felt much nicer than the stifling heat of yesterday.  I got up at about 0915 and was just thinking of getting the kettle on when I heard a horn tooting - we both guessed right and shouted out "the bread van!".  Of course I was the one who had to quickly dress, grab some money and walk to the entrance, rubbing the sleep from my eyes.  A baguette and two croissants later, we sat outside with a pot of tea and coffee, enjoying our breakfast in the fresh(er) air.  

I prepared my cycling kit while Cathy sat out and read her book.  She was planning to do the van (house) work and always likes me out of the way - who am I to argue.  I turned left out of the campsite and followed the coastal road north.  The whole eastern coastline comprises mud flats and muddy creeks, with lots of little, rundown shacks selling oysters, mussels and other seafood.  Each of these looked a little like Steptoe's Yard but, in the breezy sunshine and wind beaten, they all had their own charm.   The cycling was flat and easy with the wind, no when heading west into the prevailing breeze.  I by-passed Boyardville, with a view of the Boyard Fort (like those in the Solent) and started to cycle inland.  I started to pass the vineyards; Oleron make their own white and rosé wine and there were several wooden shacks selling this, plus pineau and cognac.  I was strong and cycled by, although we may pop in when passing in the van tomorrow.  Oleron is very much a timeless, blue-collar island, unlike it's posh neighbour across the water.  In contrast to Ile de Ré, the people go about their business as they always have, tolerating the tourists (like us!), who flock here in July and August.  It reminded me a little of the swamps and bayou of the southern USA, a little edgy but safe, with a slow pace of life little changed over the years.  Even the small, single engine planes flying over seemed to resent trying too hard to stay aloft, their 'lawnmower' engines idling and coughing.  Now inland I circled and entered St Pierre a couple of times (nothing special) before heading for the west coast.  I reached Cotiniere, a village with a busy fishing port and quite touristy.  I headed out along the campsite-strewn road, looking for an aire or somewhere to stay, but it was a bit busy for us.  The western coast faces the Atlantic and so the wind was stronger and saltier, with a high surf.  I cycled down the coast and turned toward Plage Boisvert, stopping off for a cold coke down at what seemed to be a surfing Mecca.  Back on the road I crossed the island again towards Le Chateau and the colourful oyster shacks, now mainly trendy shops, bars and restaurants - we'll be down there tonight.  

Back at the campsite, I checked the computer - nearly 34 miles, not bad and I still felt good.  I locked up the bike and walked down to the beach to get the van keys from Cathy.  The tide was still out but she was enjoying the warmth and peace in the shade of the sand-side pine trees.  Back at the van I made a flask of tea, packed some food and walked back to the beach.  We enjoyed a late lunch by which time the tide had raced in.  We moved down to the sand and walked to the water.  It was very warm and loads of fish were swimming and jumping around us.  We soaked up the mineral-rich water for a good half an hour, enjoying the warmth of the sea, before drying off on our beach chairs.  A couple of hours later we were back at the van, sorting out, showering and enjoying a Pineau apéro before walking down to the port.  We found a nice, trendy restaurant and sat outside in the sun.  The menu was small and in French (of course!) so Cathy guessed for her meal and I took the safe route of steak.  We also had a pichet of the local white wine, very fresh, light and with a bit of fizz, not unlike Portugese Vino Verde.  Our food arrived and Cathy's was razor clams - something she's not keen on!  Luckily I love them and was happy to swap my steak - the staff looked a little confused!  Cathy had a taster of six different puddings, all delicious, while I had a Charentais (cognac) coffee.  Well fed, we walked back in the fading light, taking a few more photos of the colourful shacks.  Back at the van it had cooled down and was comfortable inside as we flopped  into bed.

It's been a relaxing day, I really enjoyed my bike ride, while Cathy enjoyed her beach time, albeit wearing her beach shoes to avoid the muddy seabed!  Tomorrow we move on to a different part of the island.  We have an idea of where we want to stay but want to check the beach first; if it isn't deep blue water with sand, we'll find somewhere else, perhaps even off the island.  All part of the adventure and freedom of having the campervan.  Á demain! 

Colourful Oyster shacks - now trendy shops

From our dining table

Laid-back bar

Walking back at sunset

Port at Boyardville

Hollyhocks everywhere

Ready to catch fish and prawns

One of many Oyster and Moule shacks

Hot on Ile d'Oleron

Tuesday 30 June 2015

We're at a large aire at Le Chateau on Ile d'Oleron.  It's gone 2200 and we're still sat outside in the very warm, still air.  The temperature hit a max of 38'C today and did we feel it!  When stepping out of the van it was like someone had opened an oven door, fanned by a hot breeze.  This aire is an ex-campsite, about 100 pitches, all with electric hook up, plus toilets, showers and fresh water, and all included in the price of €10.50.  It would cost about 3 times that much in the UK for a similar site, with the beach just across the road.  The aire's less than half full, mainly elderly French, all as brown as berries, eating well and having a good time - and good for them!

We woke at about 0900 this morning and after breakfast packed up the van and pulled up at the service point to empty waste and take on fresh water.  I'd paid €2 for water but the station wasn't working - what a rip off!  So I used the grey waste to flush the toilet cassette and we headed off - today's drive was a long 5 hours, but it would get us to where we plan to spend the next week. We stopped off at a Super U for food, wine and diesel then hit the road.  The journey wasn't too bad, just long and hot.  We stopped of on the way for lunch, enjoyed sat at a concrete picnic table in the shade, just off the busy road - it was better than it sounds!

On arrival at Oleron we realised with the heat that we'd need more water so I stopped off on the way to pick some up.  We arrived at the aire and this time my credit card was accepted for 2 nights; the last time we visited here none of my cards were accepted and we ended up at a different aire, but it was still a good find.  First stop was for a fresh water top up.  I had a banging headache, dehydration I think, so kept the fluid intake going.  We took a pitch quite close to the showers.  I hooked up the electric and when I checked found the polarity (live & electric) were reversed. Luckily I have a special plug in adaptor to correct this so Cathy put the kettle on while I set up the awning, we were going to need it.  Despite the heat, a good cup of tea always hits the spot!  We wasted no time in crossing the road to the beach.  It's a thin stretch of sand and, as we found out, a shallow and very muddy sea!  This whole stretch is where the majority of the oyster beds are located.  So the swim wasn't great but it was very cooling.  Cathy had a read while I went for a walk to the end of the beach and back, up to an old Napoeonic fort.  

Back at the van we had a cold drink then enjoyed the solar-heated showers, although it was still very hot out, so we were still leaking after the shower!  I prepared a Greek salad, which we had with pork kebabs, sausage and some carrot salad, plus a couple of glasses of rosé.  It's cooled down quite a lot now but I think it'll be very warm in the van tonight, so sleeping might be a challenge.  But at least we're chilling out and enjoying making camp for a couple of nights.  We'll probably move on in a couple of days, do some sightseeing on the island and then find another site for a few nights, to take us through the weekend.  But the plans can wait for another day......

Beach Time in Brittany

Monday 29 June 2015

We're on an aire at St Gildas du Rhuys on the southern Brittany coast.  It's very peaceful - grass pitches surrounded by pines and on a cliff top overlooking the sea.  There's about 15 vans here; it says there's room for 80 but I think it would be very cramped. As it is, we have plenty of room to put the awning, table and chairs out.

Cathy went for a beach and dunes walk early this morning at Hauteville, while I snoozed in bed - I didn't sleep well last night.  We had breakfast sat outside, before driving off, stopping off in Granville for fuel.  The journey was about 3.5 hours and, although we started in cloud, by the time we arrived here it was 25'C and clear blue skies.  We pitched up, had some lunch, changed and made the short walk down to the beach.  It's a long curved beach, backed by dunes with rocks at our end and what looked like a village at the other.  The sand was soft, white and very clean; it has a very Mediterranean feel. Chairs and blanket out, we had our first swim of the day.  The sea felt cooler than yesterday, surprising given we were much further south, but the deeper Atlantic waters clearly have an effect.  The afternoon was spent swimming, sunbathing, snoozing and reading - perfect.  

We returned to the van at about 1800 and showered, then had a brew.  Dinner tonight was pork loin chops with a Greek salad, some beer for me and rosé wine for Cathy.  Washed and tidied up, by now it was gone 2100 but still warm and sunny, so we walked along the dunes to watch the sunset and take some photos.  It was indeed a lovely sunset over the village at the far end of the bay, cloudless and clear.  We walked back along the water's edge with the tide out and are now ready to sleep.  It's completely silent and still outside, I can just here the surf.  All the skylights are wide open and the quilt has been stowed under the bench, swapped for a single sheet.  Hopefully we'll have more days and nights like this.

Today I noticed the gas exhaust from the fridge has melted the plastic grill panel, perhaps from when the sliding door is open and airflow restricted.  So, with the water leak when filling the fresh water tank, Nido will need to go back into A&E for repairs when we get back.  But apart from that we're enjoying the van and getting used to the space and storage.  Tomorrow looks like another long drive to Ile d'Oleron, but then we should be static for a week, perhaps on two sites, so will have a chance to make camp and really relax......and I can get out on the bike!

Warm Sea at Hauteville!

Sunday 28 June 2015

We made it to Skipper's Bar at Hauteville-sur-Mer and are parked up in a free aire only 200m from the sea. We didn't even know this aire existed, in fact when we last came here about 14 years ago, it was just a normal car park.  It took us a while to get here though, as I tapped the wrong coordinates into the satnav!

We were ready for our beds last night and both slept like logs.  I woke at about 0815, after about 11 hours in bed and a quiet night - no cars, sirens or loud voices.  After breakfast and a brew, we emptied the grey water and loo before heading off.  It was at this point I sent us in the wrong direction and didn't realise it until two hours into our journey.  So instead of getting to Skippers at 1230, it was now estimating 1630 :-( Given that we stopped off at a Super U to buy some food and drove down the road a while before pulling over for lunch.  Something to eat and a brew fortified us for the longer journey.  After a while my eyes were suffering so Cathy took over driving for a couple of hours.  I finished off the drive to Hauteville.

Surprised at the free aire, we pulled into a pitch and wasted no time walking down to the beach for a paddle.  By now it was nearly 1800 and most people were heading home.  Now barefoot, we walked across the sand to the water's edge - the sea was WARM!  It felt very warm in fact, so much so we turned back to get our swimmers on, grab towels and seats and return.  Back at the beach we were straight into the sea - absolute bliss!   A dip eased the stresses, strains and heat of our long drive and after a sunbathe we returned to the van for a brew, shower and change of clothes.  Now we were ready to eat.

Skipper's Bar is run by a French Moroccan man and his French wife. It sits just back from the beach and is a basic snack-bar, but specialises in the Bouchot Moules, the small, sweet, early season mussels that grow just a short distance away.  We first visited here about 14 years ago, when we were on holiday in a gîte in Hudemesnil, just down the road towards Granville.  Mr T and Nicola were with us. That time the family had just taken over the bar and they had young children, now clearly grown up and helping to serve customers.  We always said we'd like to return and I found its website last week.  The Bouchot were as good as we remembered them, perhaps better, accompanied by frîtes and a carafe of chilled rosé.  A young local fisherman pulled up opposite, having towed his fishing boat off the beach with his tractor.  He was a colourful character and stopping off at Skippers for a few drinks before heading home was clearly part of his daily routine - it's just a shame we couldn't understand his raucous banter!  With no room for pudding and tired after our long drive, swim and food, we walked along the promenade for a short while before heading back through the quiet, leafy streets to the van for a hot drink and bed.

Our ultimate destination is still 6.5 hours drive from here, so we'll probably stop somewhere half-way to cut down the driving and increase chill out time.  I think we'll sleep well again tonight.

Our favourite Moules shack in Normandy....

.....and this is why.

Journey to Quend-sur-Plage

Saturday 27 June 2015

We're parked at an aire a short walk from the beach at Quend-sur-Plage, on the north France coast.  The sun's shining but it's quite breezy so a little chilly.  The aire's set amongst tall pine trees and is very busy, mainly French families here for the weekend, although a couple of Brit vans are by us.  This is the second one we tried as the first, at Fort Mahon place, was toppers.  We stopped at Fort Mahon last October; it's a typical seaside grockle place, mainly concrete and fast food joints, so we weren't too upset.  In fact this one is better.  It's €7 per night but we don't have any change so, unless someone comes around to collect the money, it'll be free!

We left home at 0730 and the journey was all motorway, with the usual hold-ups on the M25. We arrived at the Shuttle terminal two hours before our booked time and managed to get a train an hour earlier at no charge - result!  The crossing was as easy as always and about half an hour later we arrived in Calais.  We drove off (with no sign of migrants) and headed for Citie Europe; we wanted some food and cash.  This shopping centre is huge but it only had one working ATM - luckily the CaxtonFX card I'd pre-loaded with Euros worked fine (always a worry with a new card!) and we managed to avoid the many temptations in Carrefour, just buying a few items for dinner and, if we don't eat everything tonight, for lunch tomorrow (we scoffed the lot so we'll need to shop again tomorrow!).  

I tapped in the coordinates for Skipper's Bar, a small place in Hauteville-sur-Mer that sells great moules, then headed off, stopping for fuel on the way.  Skipper's is a few hours drive away (we avoid the toll roads) and we wouldn't make it tonight, so the plan was to drive until we'd had enough then find an aire for the night.  With Fort Mahon full, we ended up here.  We managed to find a small space on this busy aire, another good reason to have a smaller van, then locked up and went for a walk.  The village is very touristy with lots of fast food joints and a small funfair, but there were also a couple of decent looking bistros selling seafood.  We had a short, barefoot walk on the sandy beach before returning to the van.  Dinner was eaten outside but it was a bit blowy and chilly, so we went back in the van for a brew.  It's now 2040 and still very light - why, oh why can't we adopt mainland Europe time?  It would be so much better with an extra hour of light.  Cathy's reading while I write this up, but we're both feeling weary after a long day's travelling, so I don't think it'll be a late night.  We're already quite chilled and looking forward to our first full day in France tomorrow.

On Le Shuttle - France-bound - yay!

Dinner time on the aire at Quend-Plage

Llŷn Peninsular

Thursday 21 May 2015

This was to be our first weekend on a slightly longer trip, as I booked the Friday off to tag onto the bank holiday weekend.  It was also the postponed birthday weekend that Cathy should have enjoyed last year, but we had no can and she was still in bits after her Mum died.  So we're going to make the most of it.

I picked up Nido on the way home from work and, after loading him up and strapping my bike to the rack, we headed off.  Our first stop was the Little Roodee car park in Chester, just £1.50 for the night. One motorhome was already parked up and another joined later - safety in numbers. Without any messing we walked up to our favourite tapas bar - Porta - on Northgate Street.  We were the first in but it soon started to fill up. We enjoyed calamares, gambas pil-pil, tomato bread, jamon croquetas, chicken wings and padron peppers, all washed down with some wine.  Cathy also had a Portugese custard tart with a glass of rich desert sherry.  Well fed and watered we walked back to the van in the warm evening.

Saturday 22 May 2015

After breakfast we put some new graphics on El Nido and had a chat with one of the guy in one of the motorhomes next door.  We needed a few items in town, so walked up as the shops opened.  Firstly Lakeland for a storage box, then Cathy needed a belt as she'd left hers at home.  Then it was on to Build a Bear to buy some cool gear for Tiglet!  He now has a cowboy hat with aviator sunglasses (ready for the Malvern Show!), a bright 'Bermuda' shirt and sun hat and a very smart sequin bow-tie for those more formal evenings!  I'm sure everyone thinks we're mad but it's only a bit of fun and we needed a mascot for the van.  He has his own hashtag - #tigletontour - via @N1DOA on Twitter.

We headed off down the A55 under cloudy skies and, after stopping at the Welsh Food Centre at Bodnant for some goodies, arrived at our first campsite at about 1300.  Tŷn y Coed campsite has about 40 pitches but is very well kept, with immaculate facilities.  We had a quick chat with one of the owners then pitched up in one of the fields - just us but 2 tents arrived later in the evening.

We had lunch sat outside, by which time the skies were clearing then grabbed our walking gear and went off to find the Wales Coastal Path.  Wales have now completed the path on every stretch of the coastline and it's well maintained and sign-posted.  We had a walk in one direction, then doubled back to drop down to the beach just below the NT car park at Porthdinllaen. This was the first time since my op that I'd been to a proper beach and for the first time for years I could smell the sea - it was wonderful!  We followed the beach around and finally reached the Tŷ Coch Inn, right on the beach with great views over the bay. We sat outside with a beer, relaxing with a great view over the bay, watching people come and go.

It started to rain on the walk back so on our return to the van Cathy had some hot chocolate and me coffee, then I prepared a chicken curry with naan, which we both enjoyed; the sea air had clearly given us an appetite. I think the chilled, free champagne from Ocado helped! Cathy went off to wash up and I tidied away and we had a cup of tea before heading off to bed.

aaaaaand........Relax

Saturday 23 May 2015

Happy Birthday Cathy! xxx

We woke to clear blue skies, although some high cloud soon started to move in.  I made the tea while Cathy opened her cards and presents. Breakfast was some artisan bread toasted and eaten outside.  I tried one of the coffee sachets - good value.  With everything secured, we drove over to empty fluids and top up fresh water then drove off for the short hop to our next overnight stop.

We stopped at Porth Iago last July and loved the scenery and isolation.  Perched on top of a sandy, cliff, the stop,is basically a field with no facilities.  But the views are stunning and, if nobody else is there, you have a beautiful, white sandy cove all to yourself.  This time it took us a while to find it, but after a few false starts we pulled into the farm yard with the weird brothers staring at us.  I paid £3 to park for the day and we drove into the field.  There were a few cars and a couple of VW campers already parked up.  Cathy prepped the flask, fruit and cake (I'd ordered some birthday sponge in two flavours) and we walked East along the coastal path.  It was warm and sunny as we walked along the cliff top, enjoying the view and sound of the blue water.  The path took us to Porthor Beach, or Whistling Sands as it's better known.  This is caused by the sand particles rubbing together and making a squeaking sound. We had a quick paddle in the clear but very cold water, then sat and had our fruit, tea and cake.  After a sunbathe we walked along the beach to the little café and back again before walking back along the path.

Back at the van we had a quick change before shuffling down the sandy cliff path to our favourite beach at Porth Iago, just above where the van was parked.  There were quite a few families on the beach with dogs also enjoying playing. It was lovely and warm so we crashed on picnic blanket.  I had a wander down to the water and walked around.  We both had a snooze and a brew and enjoyed feeling the sun on us.  At about 1600 we came back up to the van and I prepared dinner - marinated chicken, Greek salad and pitta bread.  We set up outside but it was windy and took a long time to cook the meat - by the time it was ready we were frozen! But we toughed it out, almost finishing our dinner before coming in to the van.  Cathy was enjoying her birthday champagne and after eating we put everything away, washed up and sat in the cab (with the gas heating on 21'C!) watching the sun sink. A couple of VW vans were next to us - two men with 3 boys and 3 dogs and a big BBQ!  After dinner I took some doggie treats out for them to share.  As it darkened we had a hot drink before turning in for the night. It's been a lovely day; sunny, quite warm (out of the wind) and very relaxing.  I think Cathy enjoyed her birthday and no doubt we'll sleep well again tonight.

Cool Tiglet!

Approaching Porthor beach (whistling sands)

Myrtle's Mug shot at Whistling Sands beach

Sunny but the wind was chilly

Late afternoon at Porth Iago

Sunday 24 May 2015

It rained in the night and we woke to a grey, though warm morning.  I cooked breakfast on the Cadac - bacon, eggs and bread and we ate in the van, with the side door open and a panoramic view of the cove and sea.  With everything washed up and secured, we left Porth Iago and drove the short distance to the National Trust car park at Porthor. We left the car park and walked along the coastal path heading west.  It gradually started to warm up and the cloud lifted and, by the time we returned to the van and flashed the kettle up for a brew, it was warm and sunny.  

Our next stop was a CL at Pant Gwyn, back up the coast.  This was easily found and I parked up to find the owner and our pitch.  This site comprises four separate camping fields, none of which meet the description of a CL - five pitches.  So although it was a good site with great sea views, we did feel a little seen off, as we were looking for a bit of seclusion and this site was very busy.  But it was still quiet and laid back, with good facilities and the obligatory welcoming working collie dog.  Once pitched up I prepped my bike and went off for a ride, while Cathy stayed behind to read and chill out.  I followed the B road heading NE and on the way found a small shop, so bought some fresh crab, red wine and some savoury snacks.  I carried on to Porthdinllaen, spending some time by the beach before reversing my route.

Back at the van, once everything was put away, we walked through a field of sheep and joined the coastal path, heading south.  There were some lovely rocky beaches, but we continued on to join a popular sandy beach.  The water was cold but we soon got used to it as we walked along the surf line.  After a sit in the sun, we returned along the path, stopping off at one of the rocky beaches for a sunbathe, before returning to the van.  The sun was still warm and strong, so we sat outside with a brew. Cathy had a shower while I topped up fresh water then we prepped dinner before I had my shower.  We were both glowing from the sun, but felt a little chilly despite sitting facing the setting sun. Dinner was cooked on the Cadac - new potatoes fried with chorizo, spring onions, garlic and green pepper, plus a leaf, tomato and cucumber salad.  Some pre-dinner Pringles accompanied the red wine.  As it was starting to get chilly, I went to wash up while Cathy put everything away.  We sat in the van to watch the sunset and finish our wine, before a hot drink and turning in for the night. As I type it's 2216 and there's still a thin band of red and purple light above the sea - lovely. Tomorrow we head back home after a really enjoyable and relaxing weekend.

Breakfast with a view - Porth Iago

Chilly!

Monday 25 May 2015
We woke to grey skies and drizzle.  After breakfast, tidying up and securing, we drove off to the National Trust house and garden at Plas Newydd, right on the Anglesey shore of the Menai Straits and with a view of the Britannia Road bridge.  We didn't bother with the house but had a walk around the gardens.   Driving back east we stopped off at Colwyn Bay for fish and chips overlooking the sea before getting hope early evening to unpack, clean and return Nido to storage.

So another good break in the van with lovely scenery and some decent weather.