Why's the Froome Dog running?

Thursday 14 July 2016

Shopping List:

Baguette

Butter

Milk

Crevettes

Melon

Loo roll

Champagne! 

It's Bastille Day, although you wouldn't think so.  It's like any normal day in France - quiet roads, villages and towns like the Marie Celeste, supermarkets shut at lunch time. I expected a UK-type bank holiday - horrendous traffic jams, 'super-sales' in all the shops, drunks outside the pub, torrential rain.  Well, we had some torrential rain on and off today, but we also had some hot sunshine.  But France has been quiet (at this time we didn't know about the dreadful events in Nice that evening).  There were loads of fireworks late last night in Mutigny, so perhaps they celebrate the night before.  One thing I have noticed though, is that the French like to have a Brocante - or car-boot sale - on or around Bastille Day.  And this isn't the sort of car-boot sale we know - in a muddy field with people selling piles of rusty tools and videos (who has a video recorder these days?).  No, a French Brocante is held outside their house on the pavement - on either a wallpaper paste table or actually out of the back of the car - outside their house. So, as we walked (yesterday) or drove (today) through the the villages, every other house were having their own little car boot sale.  We were restrained and didn't buy any kiddie plastic tricycles, wine racks or tacky ornaments! 

Back to the real world. On our way I stopped off at an Intermarché armed with the above shopping list, before driving to today's stop. Nido's parked up in a lovely aire in the village of Coucy Le Château Auffrique.  There's 5 pitches, separated by grass and beds of flowers and shrubs.  For €5 we get unlimited electric, 10 minutes of fresh water and free use of the toilet (in which we have not ventured - this is France after all!).  And we also have any excellent view of Coucy Castle on the hill above us.  Once settled in, we enjoyed our lunch while torrential rain did its best to ruin our day (it failed).  We walked around the uphill road and entered the village by one of the medieval gates and towers.  Along cobbled streets we paid our €10.50 and entered the castle walls.  The expansive grassy area inside was set up for medieval jousting and other such events, but not today - yesterday, tomorrow and the day after - but not today!  Still, we felt we had our money's worth, walking around the walls, the main castle and the many towers and subterranean caves and dungeons.  There were great 360' views, including little Nido down in the aire below, surrounded by the big A class and coachbuilt motorhomes.

A little history lesson - listen carefully:

The first castle on this site was built in 920 by the archbishop of Reims to protect his territory at Coucy.  It was extended from 1079 onwards under the dynasty of the Lords of Coucy. They dominated the history of the castle for three centuries. In 1220, Enguerrand III of Coucy, a warrior at the Battle of Bouvines (on 27 July 1214, Phillipe Auguste's Royal troops beat the coalition financed by John Lackland's England) and in the expeditions against the Cathars, had the town enclosed and built the existing castle with its enormous keep. One hundred and fifty years later, Enguerrand VII, a great diplomat, transformed the building into a sumptuous palace. He died without any male descendants and in 1400 the Coucy estate was bought by Louis of Orleans to strengthen his Valois duchy. Following the Fronde in the 17th century (the last war waged against the King of France by the lords of the kingdom from 1648 to 1653), the castle was broken up and abandoned. It became national property at the Revolution and was used as a stone quarry until it was bought by Louis-Phillipe in 1829' then by the State in 1848.  Several architects in turn including Viollet-Le-Duc, worked to preserve the ruins.  Used by the French Army as a HQ in the First World War, it was later captured by the Germans who, as they moved out in 1917, used 28 tons of explosives to blow up the four towers and the keep (they also blew up a lot of our chip shops in a later war - perhaps the castle was practice). Don't you just love free pamphlets!

As we walked around we spotted loads of different 'Masons' Jobbers' marks' on the hand-cut and carved stones. These were signs made by the stonesmiths and masons, who were paid by their job marks left on the blocks in order to receive payment for their toils - hence the term 'a job lot'.  Castle visit done, we wandered around some of the narrow streets and on top of the village walls (including coming across a group of latter day stonemasons working to prepare the Laon Gate)' before my 'beer radar' led us to a bar/tabac.  Cathy sat at a table outside and I wandered in to order a couple of beers. It was a typical French bar - a few old chaps and the barman sat on stools staring at a TV mounted high in the corner.......watching the Tour de France!  I'd seen nothing of it for 12 days, but a quick chat with the barman confirmed it was the stage to Ventoux.  I watched for a couple of minutes, then remembered 'the boss' was outside and waiting for her beer, so I reluctantly dragged my self away.  Although, to be fair, she did say I could stay in the bar to watch the race.   I popped back in later to use the loo and was confused to see Chris Froome, wearing the leader's Yellow Jersey, running uphill, sans bike.  Now even the most unsporty amongst you will know that the Tour de France is a race on bikes - it's not a running race!  So I was a tad confused, not helped by the fast French commentary.  He eventually got a bike, which clearly was worse than something you find in the canal, as he quickly dumped it and waited for the Team Sky car, jumping on and finishing the race, although I have no idea of the impact on his current lead.  I eventually found out he was caught up in another rider's crash with a motorbike. I look forward to seeing it in the highlights when I get home.

Back in the van we enjoyed a hot shower and a dinner of potatoes and carrots roasted in 'Oska', plus veal chops and red pepper cooked on the Cadac BBQ.  With a couple of glasses of red wine and a final flurry of sunshine and clear blue sky, it was a good ending to an interesting day.  Tomorrow we head for the coast of Northern France for our last couple of days. No doubt the weather will deteriorate as we get closer to Blighty. Perhaps we should just turn around again and head south to follow the sun?

I pulled over and saw this massive German war cemetery - sad sight

Lovely aire with a view of Coucy castle

One of the latrines in the castle - a very long drop!

Can you spot Nido?

Another Nido view

All set up for tomorrow's jousting 

Champagne lifestyle

Wednesday 13 July 2016

Nido's parked up in another free aire in the village of Mutigny, high on a hill and completely surrounded by grape vines - we're deep in champagne country.  When we arrived we were alone, but a couple of vans have turned up since.  

It rained quite heavily last night and again after breakfast, so I waited until it stopped before moving the van over to the service point to fill up with (free!) fresh water and dump grey and black waste.  We stopped off at the Super U on our journey for food and diesel, before arriving at our first planned stop - a free Aire alongside the huge man-made lake of Der de Chantecoq, parking up with around about 20 other motorhomes. We enjoyed our lunch then started a walk around part of the lake.  At the start a woman stopped Cathy to ask if we had a portable gas stove she could borrow and which was our van.  Cathy said she looked very shifty and something didn't quite feel right about her. Also, the lakeside walk was on a boring concrete road with views of but no access to the lake.  We have a rule that if one of us feels uncomfortable at a stop, then we'll just move on, no questions asked. Well, I wasn't keen on the view and Cathy was suspicious of that woman and her male friend driving around in his car.  So I looked up another aire, we drove off and are now happily parked up with amazing views over the champagne vineyards.

We had a brew on arrival then went for a walk.  First we wandered through the tracks between the vines, noting the terroir was very stony and chalky, but clearly the vines like it. Back up the hill, we walked into the village.  Although quite small, there are several small, family champagne houses, offering tours, tastings and the opportunity to buy a bottle or two. The locals were also setting up for some form of party at the village hall, maybe for tomorrow's Bastille Day celebrations. 

Back at the van Cathy prepared a delicious dinner of pan cooked salmon, with vegetables and lentils, which we enjoyed with a (cheap!) bottle of Saumur cremant.  Now washed up, we're sat looking at the view, with a mix of dark clouds dropping sharp but short rain showers, combined with the occasional shaft of sunlight.  It's quiet, we're full and no doubt will be nodding off soon - so it's goodnight from her and it's goodnight from him - goodnight! 

Post-lunch walk - great skies

ooh - we're heading into that!

Great view from the aire at Mutigny

Future bubbles!

One of several small, family champagne houses in the village

It's been a busy day

Tuesday 12 July 2016

It's been a busy day.  Nido remains parked at the free aire by the lake in Favières. Man - it's so peaceful here.  The beauty of this part of France is that it's pretty much untouched by tourism; most tourists pass it by, if visit at all.  Downside - no café stop on my bike ride, upside - unspoilt countryside, beautiful villages and not a soul speaks English (except for one young girl at the lake paying booth), which means we've had to be brave and try out our French - and we've done OK.

The neds stopped doughnuts and wheelies in the car park at about 2300 last night, although they were replaced by the French Air Force doing aerial doughnuts into the night.  How did I know it was the French Air Force? Simple - the RAF don't fly after tea and certainly not after beddie-byes time! It rained a little in the night but remained warm, yet we woke to clear blue skies - again. I was off for a bike ride, so made myself a large breakfast - smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, pretzel, banana and nectarine - and a cup of tea.  Cathy also had a cuppa propped up in bed.  With my trusty steed off the rack, pockets and water bottle filled, I cycled out of the aire, turned right and uphill - and instantly regretted that large breakfast! The first 20 minutes of my ride seemed all to be uphill - something my digestion didn't appreciate- but eventually I was in the rhythm and loved the gentle, stress-free ride on smooth, quiet roads, through forests, small ancient villages and huge fields of corn, wheat and barley - I love cycling in France! The villages were generally quiet and pretty run down, but with some well kept gardens and potages.  I cycled through a few, turning around at Autreville - 'Another Village' - had they run out of names by this one!?  I was looking for a coffee stop, but this area is so far off the beaten track, that most villages don't have a tabac or boulangerie, never mind a café.  I rode a different route back, which was much shorter, and was soon back in Favières.  I carried on down the road towards the 'village fleurie' of Gelaucourt.  But on the way I came across this familiar face, who had already been and was on the return trek.  So being the gallant chap that I am, after exchanging pleasantries - she knows what I mean! - I rode back to the van to put the kettle on.  

We enjoyed our brew sat in the sunshine. I locked my bike on the rack, washed out my kit and hung it out to dry. We packed up our swimming gear and walked the 5 minutes to the lake.  This is such an excellent facility. The toddlers area was full, plus an area on the far left for the school camping groups to paddle in canoes and capsize each other.  We picked an area in the middle, spread our 'blankie' and towels on the grass in the sun and went for a swim.  There was an artificial beach which led into the warm lake. We love swimming in fresh water and were soon out of our depth and floating close to the reeds, with dragonflies buzzing around our head.  It's amazing how different a perspective you have at water level. We spent the afternoon swimming, sunbathing and walking back and to along the beach. The FAF continued their practice strafing runs - I recognise every French warplane silhouette from my Falklands War enemy plane recognition training  (despite the 34 years past) - as the French provided the Argentinians with most of their planes, although they didn't like our Seawolf missiles!! Later on I bought us an ice cream and asked the ageing restaurant waiter (think of a grumpy Antonio Carluccio!) what time they opened for dinner tonight. At the back of the restaurant we made use of the free but cold outdoor showers - and the shower gel secreted in our rucksack - to have a good dhoby and hair wash - I think we're turning into proper 'on the road' hippies! 

Back at the van, wet gear was hung out to dry and we enjoyed a brew and a read in the sunshine. Cathy in the meantime (when I was cycling) had stripped the bed and cleaned the van, so she made up the bed with clean sheets, ready for 'fresh hay' tonight. Changed and smelling clean (unusual for us hippies!) we walked back up to the restaurant, overlooking the lake and hills. Antonio was still on watch, but was now joined  by another, younger waiter - perhaps in his early 60s!? We ordered our food and an apero of beer (Cathy) and pastis (me).  Starters arrived, soon demolished, as were the mains and puddings.  I'd initially struggled to be understood here during the day and realised now that they spoke another 'version' of French - closer to German (Alsatian?). For example, 'Antonio' referred to Cathy as 'frau' rather than 'femme' - unless of course he thought 'we' were German. Still the food was good and we worked our way into their favour with good humour and pidgeon French.  At the end of the meal I went inside to thank them all for a good meal and bought them all a drink - whisky for Antonio, pastis for his oppo, beer for chef and a juice for (about 13 year old) mini-chef.  I learnt long ago that if you look after your chefs and stewards, they'll look after you.  I also ordered a Calvados for myself and, after some fun and laughter with them, the bottle was plonked in front of me to finish off gratis - so forgive any spollang mostwkas in thps bleg! 

Back in Nido, Cathy's asleep and it's very quiet outside - clearly the neds and the French Air Force are having an early night. It's been a very relaxing couple of days in an area of France unspoilt by mass tourism.  We've loved the lake wild swimming and friendly locals; Lorraine is an area to which we'll definitely return.  Although we could have spent nothing over the past two days, by paying for the lake swim and eating in the restaurant, we've put something back into the local community. Tomorrow we transit west, with our next stop planned for another free Aire at another swimming lake - this time in the Champagne region. We plan to buy a bottle ready to celebrate our impending final mortgage payment - another step closer to FIRE.   Until then, it's another relaxing, quiet, replete, sleep time in France - bonsoir. 

  

View from our dinner table on the terrace

Ham hock - yum!

Freeloading in Faviéres

Monday 11 July 2016

Nido is parked up at a free aire in the village of Faviéres, in the Lorraine region of France (where the quiche comes from!).  When I say 'free', I mean free to stay, free electricity and free water.  This is one of the ways the local French communes entice in visitors like us. We'll spend some money in the boulangerie and we may even eat in the village restaurant tomorrow night.

From the celebrations, singing, car horns and fireworks last night, I can only assume that France beat Portugal in the Euros final.  But they quietened down reasonably early (about 0100), to be followed by the workmen of Gérardmer started up their JCBs and diggers next to the Aire at about 0500!  Still, we slept well in between and after a very hot start to the night, with all windows open, it felt much cooler in the morning.  Breakfast done, secured for the road and gash ditched, we left and climbed up through the forest, before descending into the rolling plains of Lorraine, packed with fields of crops and small farming villages.  We stopped off at a small Carrefour supermarket on the way to top up with food and arrived at this Aire at about 1230.

There are five large spaces for motorhomes, with great 360' views of countryside all around. There was one French van here when we arrived and they were plugged into one of the free electric sockets, so I took the other.  We lunched outside in hot sunshine on the grass next to our parking spot. The aire is next to two small lakes - Base des Loisirs. One is a swimming lake (which we'll enjoy tomorrow) and the other is a fishing lake, adapted to allow disabled people to fish.  There's also a sensory garden and box-hedge maze.  There's a campsite above the lakes (for school and disabled groups) and a number of disabled children were laughing and enjoying the lake - what a fantastic facility.  If that's not enough there's a football pitch and a large restaurant with a good, reasonably priced menu and terrace bar. From the programme of events it's clearly a meeting place for the villagers.  We walked around the lake, sheltering under a tree during a short but intense rain shower, before returning to the van.  Cathy had a snooze on the grass while I researched some potential stops for the rest of this week. 

I prepared a tomato and onion salad for tonight, using the last of our baguette in the bottom of the bowl to soak up the juices and added some marjoram we 'gleaned' from the medieval garden at Murbach Abbey. We took a walk around the village, which was quiet but fairly large, albeit spread out. There were some lovely old buildings, many with the original large arch and gates (used for horse and carts), leading through to large old barns and courtyards.  Some were recently renovated but others were dilapidated and ripe for conversion - and some up for sale if anyone's interested!  We also came across a lavarie where the village women washed clothes by hand.  Looking up, there were several lacy bras thrown over the large oak beams under the roof - no doubt a regular meeting place for the young people! Back at the van, I cooked steak and sausage on the BBQ and we sat outside to eat. It was a little cooler now, but at least the wind had dropped. 

There's a large car park by the lake and the local neds were doing regular circuits and wheelies on their mopeds (sounding like large angry bees) and the occasional older ned screeching around in their hatchback - clearly they have plenty of disposable income for new tyres.  When bored with that they headed over to the lake to let off firecrackers and rockets - boys will be boys!  It's calmer now and we're sat outside with a brew, watching the sunset through the trees.  It should be a quiet night, the only sounds being sheep, cows, donkeys and the odd angry bee' moped.  We've some sleep to catch up on after the Euros celebrations!

Great aire - free including electric and water

 

The village lavarie

In the beams of the lavarie roof!!

Nido's rear just poking out on the far left

Allez Les Bleus!

Friday 10 July 2016

Today is my 53rd birthday, although we don't make a fuss of such things these days! So no cards or presents, but another hot, sunny day.  The heat pushed us out of the van at about 0730. We enjoyed an English breakfast of bacon and eggs, but then went all healthy with some fresh pineapple and apricots. We cracked on with our allocated 'moving on' jobs, I paid for our three nights and we hit the road, target France. I'd found an aire in the hills, surrounded by woods, in Murbach, next to an old Abbey in the Lorraine area.  On the journey we had to detour a couple of times as roads were closed for large Sunday markets, but eventually we arrived. It was a quiet, peaceful spot, by a brook and shaded.  We put out table and chairs on the grass and enjoyed our lunch in the shade. We walked around the medieval garden but decided to move on.  So we drove on to another aire in the village of Orschwihr, with views over the terraced vineyards. But this only had one spare pitch with nowhere to sit outside, so on we went.  It was third time lucky - the drive took us over the mountains past many ski stations and with amazing views over the hills and lakes. An hour or so later we arrived at a large aire in the town of Gérardmer. We had a brew in the shade before packing our swimming gear.  There's a large lake here and the town has grown around it, making it a popular tourist spot, in a similar way to the Lake District - only hot and sunny!  We paid to enter the the small plages and enjoyed a lovely swim in the peat-coloured water. Returning to the van we realised from the riot of Flags Bleu and people in football tops, and red, white and blue flags painted on their faces, that it was the Euro final tonight - France vs Portugal.  Another brew in the shade and once changed, we walked down the main drag, enjoying the sights and sounds of the football supporters. After a walk by the lake we returned to restaurant row and picked one to eat.  It was noisy but all very good humoured.  Fed and watered, we walked along the lake in the cool evening air as the sun set over the far side.  Eventually the swarms of midges forced us back and we're now sat outside in the dark, listening to the football supporters and regular very loud fire crackers.  We have no idea who's leading if any, but there's plenty of singing and shouting of "Allez les Bleus"! The end of another lovely relaxing day and, for me, another year older. 

Murbach Abbey

Great views on the drive in to Gerardmer

Another lake, another beach, another swim....bliss!

Shady pitch

Euros final - good move by the beer and fast food joint to add the big screen