Tour de France en Yorkshire!

My cycling buddy - Ray - and I have been planning for some time to follow the Tour when it came to Yorkshire.  The original plan was to take our campervan up for the 4 nights, however with it delayed again (long story) the contingency plan came into effect - camping out in a tent. Luckily Ray had access to one so it didn't cost us any more.  Way back in October last year I booked us a pitch at the Velofest, based in Kilnsey.  Included in the price was our pitch, toilets, hot showers and access to the main arena for food, drink and live music in the evening.  So over the coming months we planned our trip and I was packed and ready a full week before. Here's our story.....

Thursday 3 July 2014
I left work at midday and Ray arrived just after 2pm.  After a cuppa and a catch up, we loaded up his car with all our stuff, strapped the bike rack to the back of the car and tied our bikes on. Then we were off!  The journey was mainly up the M6 before branching off and heading towards the Dales.  We arrived at the campsite at about 4.30pm parked up and grabbed the tent to find a decent pitch.  A lot of people had arrived already, so it took a while to find a spot, but once done we soon put the tent up. Once this was done, we went off to get our Velofest wristbands. The next hour or so was spent fetching kit and bikes from the car, putting up the windbreak, blowing up air beds and getting our little camp set up. The bikes were stored safely in the tent porch and I got the kettle on and the seats out for a cup of tea - time to chill!

Later we headed off to look around the main arena.  We wandered around to check out the food and drink stalls - Ray finally decided on fish & chips and I had a chicken balti.  We also grabbed a coffee.  The arena had two giant screens set up to allow everyone to watch each stage and that evening they were showing the Team Presentations, so we watched the end of that.  By this time it was getting late (for us!) so we headed back to the tent to read our cycling mags for a while, before crashing out for the night.  It was a bit grey and drizzly overnight and we both (being men of a certain age) had to get dressed and walk to the loos a couple of time in the night.  It's clear they had underestimated how many portaloos they needed and how soon they would fill up - it was pretty grim, enough said on that score!

Loading up ready to leave

Settling the bikes into their temporary home

Team Presentation on the big screens

Must be beer o'clock!

Chilling with a cuppa!

Friday 4 July 2014
We woke on Friday to sunny weather with a bit of a southerly breeze.  Neither of us slept that well, mainly due to the noise, floodlights and having to get up to the loo a couple of times in the night!  After a cuppa we walked over to get a bacon roll and coffee for breakfast. Our plan today was to get out on our bikes and explore some of Stage 1.   Bikes checked over, water bottles filled and changed, we headed out of the campsite and turned right opposite the Tennants Arms.

We were now on a section of Stage 1 - tomorrow the riders would be cycling on these roads. The route was fairly gentle - a few undulating climbs but nothing too strenuous to start with and the scenery was outstanding - green fields, dry-stone walls and sheep - lots and lots of sheep! There were loads of cyclists on the route of all ages, shapes and sizes.  After about 3 miles we dropped down into the village of Kettlewell, an extremely pretty spot with a small stone bridge over the River Wharfe and a lovely country pub.  The road is narrow and windy here so the the riders tomorrow could be quite bunched; no doubt it will be a popular and busy viewing point.  We continued onwards, soon passing the small hamlet of Buckden.  On our right a local church hall was offering bacon butties, sausages in baps and hot drinks, shouting from the gate to come on in - we said we would on the way back.

By this time we were seeing parking signs for the Cote de Cray - this is one of the first climbs on Stage 4 and is a Cat 4 climb.  This was quite a long climb that started gradually, but then got steeper nearer the top as the road twisted and turned.  It certainly got us both puffing and at the top it was windy and rainy.  After catching our breath, a drink we turned around and headed down, Ray burning rubber as his tyres gripped the road as he hurtled down, me burning rubber as I squeezed my brakes as hard as I could!  At the bottom we stopped as promised for a sausage bap and a cup of tea at the church hall before starting our return trip.  On the way we came across a field of sheep dyed yellow - lots of people in cars, on bikes and on foot were stopping to take photos.  

Back at the site we had a good hot shower and by this time it was threatening rain, so we sat in the tent reading as the rain started.  A break in the rain allowed us to walk out and get something to eat before heading back to the tent.  By this time it was raining heavily so it was an early night for us.

Top of Cote de Cray

Cooling off!

Baa Baa Yellow Sheep, have you any wool

The sun setting over Kilnsey Crag

End of a great day

Saturday 5 July 2014 - Stage 1: Leeds to Harrogate
It rained very heavily all night, stopping at about 6am.  Although our sleeping areas were dry, quite a lot of rain had entered the sitting area so some time was spend bailing out, mopping up and trying to get stuff dried, but at least the bikes were safe.  After breakfast we got ourselves ready and headed out to find a good spot to watch the Tour.

The road had been closed to vehicles since 6am so we know it would be fun cycling up the road.  We again turned right and cycled out along the route for about 3 miles, stopping at a metal gate set back from but right next to the route.  Then it was a waiting game; luckily the weather was good, if not a bit breezy so we were glad of our jackets.  During this time many thousands of spectators cycled past us, some in fancy dress.  The first of the British and French motorcycle cops came through, as well as tour cars and vans.  Another 'Fareham Wheeler' came along, recognised Ray's top and stopped for a chat.  About 1130 the caravan came through, travelling at speed - those sat on the top looked pretty chilly!  A couple of hours later we sensed the riders were getting closer as we could see helicopters coming up the valley. Finally the first riders came over the brow of the hill and down towards us, a breakaway of 3 riders, followed a few minutes later by the peleton, with all the usual motorbike outriders and team cars.  After clapping and cheering them through quiet returned, so we jumped on our bikes and headed back to the Velofest site.  A quick change and we headed off to grab some food and drink, while watching the Stage on the giant screens.  The hog road baguettes went down well with a pint of lager, closely followed by a pasty (I managed to persuade Ray to have one - more of that later).  We witnessed Cav crash in the closing sprint and joined in the collective groan.  It was hot and sunny and we had sunburned heads. We then went back, got changed and headed out on our bikes again to ride off the food and drink.  Turning right and heading up the route, we decided to climb Cote de Cray again.  By this time Ray was feeling the effects of his pasty and, as we approached the top of the climb, he decided the pasty and him should part company!  At the top it was sunnier than yesterday so we stayed a while longer, before turning around and heading down again. We passed the site and carried on down the road, turning off towards Grassington before reversing our route and heading back.

Back at the site, after a hot shower and a brew, we headed over the road to the Tennants Arms, for a couple of pints of welcome bitter, while watching the (very middle-aged) DJ throwing some shapes at the outside disco!  Even the adults and children waiting at the bus stop opposite were dancing and they eventually gave up waiting for the bus and crossed over to join the party. We returned to the site to get some food.  It was a clear and still night and by this time getting very chilly.  We sat at a table having our food then returned to the tent for a hot drink.  We actually managed to stay up until about 11.30pm tonight, but by then it felt really cold and it took a while for me to warm up in my sleeping bag.  But eventually quiet returned to the site, apart from the odd 'pub singer' in his tent, and peace returned.

Fareham Wheelers x 2

View from our spot

Where's the peloton?

Sat in the hot sun watching Stage 1

He'll regret that beer later!

Checking texts on his 'modern' phone!

Sunday 6 July 2014 - Stage 2: York to Sheffield
We had a bit of a lie in this morning (until 8am) as we had a bit more time to get down to a spot to watch Stage 2.  We'd decided earlier that we weren't going to stay overnight tonight but instead head back to Cheshire.  So we dismantled and packed what we could and took it to the car, but left the tent up so we could change. This time we turned left and rode down, turning off near Grassington then heading towards the village of Burnsall and then on to Bolton Abbey. This was only about 12 miles but was very hilly so we certainly felt every mile.  Arriving at Bolton Abbey it was already very busy so we locked up the bikes and found a spot by the A59, at the bottom of a hill and right next to a traffic island - could be interesting.  The caravan had already passed through so we only had to wait about an hour for the riders.  This time there was a breakaway of 7 riders who came through a few minutes ahead of the peloton. This time they were riding much faster and the noise from the crowd improved the atmosphere.  It took us a while to get away from here but eventually we were back in the hilly countryside.  We stopped off at a tea shop in Burnsall for a coffee and flapjack before heading back to the site.

We dismantled the tent and secured the bikes back onto the rack before heading off for a cool shower.  We walked to the arena to get some cold drinks for the journey home and stood to watch the remainder of Stage 2 on the big screens before jumping in the car and starting our journey home.

We had a great weekend watching the tour both in real life and on the giant screens, riding some of the route ourselves and relaxing.  It was good to have my cycling wing-man with me again - we ride well together and the banter and laughter carried on all weekend.  Hopefully next year we can go and see some of the Tour in France in our campervan.

Stopping at Burnsall

Coffee and flapjack time

Surprise weekend in Chester and Isle of Anglesey

Friday 6 June 2014
Our own van should have been ready for us to collect today but, true to form, it's been delayed yet again, this time for another 3 weeks - that'll be 4 months later than the original completion date! But that's another story.

So we had nothing planned for this weekend. Cathy was working down at the unit, preparing a couple of motorhomes to go out and once again, Dave & Lesley kindly suggested we take one of their vans away for the weekend, in this case th Eldiss.  So I was surprised to receive a text at work just before midday to say we're off in a van tonight so find us somewhere to stay. I popped into Morrisons at lunchtime to buy some food and was home by about 1715. Cathy was still down at the unit, but had packed some clothes: I added mine to the bag, grabbed a few other things and drove down to the unit.

Because it was such short notice I knew it would be difficult to get a campsite pitch, so had a think about where to stay. I decided on the Little Roodee coach park, by the river Dee in Chester for tonight, followed by a night overlooking the beach at Lligwy Bay on Anglesey.  So with the van packed up we headed off.  It was a really warm day so we were looking forward to a stroll through Chester and a night out.

We arrived at an almost empty car park and paid the overnight parking fee - £5 for large vans, but only £1.50 if you can fit in a normal parking bay.  The van looked quite lonely parked on its own, but a couple of others arrived later. A quick change and we headed off, walking alongside the river and up into town. We were headed for the Portas Tapas Bar on Northgate Street, but stopped off for a couple of drinks along the way.  Arriving at Portas, the outside seats were taken, given the warm, balmy evening, so we went inside. They were busy so we grabbed a couple of stools near the entrance and ordered a glass of wine until a table became free.  Once showed to a space to sit and eat - a couple of stools alongside a long bar-like table, we ordered our food.  It quickly came and we really enjoyed it, particularly the croquetas and calamari, but it was all delicious, quickly delivered and just enough. A couple of wine glass refills later, Cathy was ready for some pudding, a lovely chocolate pudding, which came with a dark, sweet sherry. We'll definitely visit this tiny Tapas Bar again.  The night was still and warm as we walked back to the van and sleep.

Lonely but soon to be joined by two more vans

Very tasty!

Saturday 7 June 2014
The coach park is a great option to stay overnight in Chester, if a little noisy. The gates are locked at 2230 and are supposed to be opened at 0630, but I heard the van arrive to unlock at 0430. We were up at about 0700 and had a quick brew before heading off. By this time the clouds were building and, as we joined the A55 and headed into Wales, we drove into torrential rain. By the time we reached Anglesey it had eased off and we pulled into the car park at Lligwy Bay under cloudy but warm skies. I reversed the van up to give us uninterrupted views of the bay and the sea.  Kettle on, we sat in the rear lounge with some bacon butties and a brew. After a walk along the beach and a quick paddle (the sea was bloody freezing!) we came back to put our feet up, read and watch the weather.  More heavy rain came over and we were both feeling tired, so I climbed into the over-cab bed, while Cathy stretched out in the rear lounge. A good snooze later, the rain and clouds were gone and the sun was shining, so we headed off for a walk along the coastal path, heading North. After a short while we realised we'd been here before - we were on the same path we had walked a few years ago, recorded in our first ever blog entry.  We sat on the rocks in the sun for a while before walking back along the beach. Back at the van we had a brew sat on the bench outside, overlooking the van, before heading back inside for a read. Dinner tonight was steak, sausages and Greek salad, with a chilled bottle of Cava. We know we won't be able to do afford to do this in our own van every weekend, but this trip was a surprise, so,why not! I'd packed our little yellow bucket BBQ so that was flashed up while we sat outside in the evening sunshine. We chatted to the couple next door, in a panel van conversion, from Warrington. They were very well organised and enjoyed their BBQ, sat inside with the sliding door open and in full sun, yet out of the wind - that'll be us soon. Well fed, we sat in the sun as it lowered, headed inside to wash up, sweep the floors, then watched the tide ebb as the sun set.  It's been a very relaxing day, just what we needed.  As the sun sets over the headland I know we'll sleep well.

View from our dining room

Soaking up the last of the sun

Sunday 8 June 2014
We did indeed sleep well in the peace and quiet of the Bay. After a brew sat outside and a hot shower, I cooked us bacon butties. After 24 hours parked up, we packed everything away and headed off along the coastal road. Next stop was Church Bay, down a winding and narrow road. We parked up easily opposite the Lobster Pot restaurant and took a walk along the coastal path heading south. It was sunny but very blustery and we enjoyed the cobwebs being blown away as we walked along the cliff top path. From this highpoint we were looking out towards Holyhead, a few miles across the bay. We'd not been there before and it was approaching lunchtime, so that was our next destination. We followed the signs for the town centre and then the harbour. Some free coach parking was right on the waterfront so we stopped there. We started to walk into town, but it didn't look promising, so we turned back towards the harbour and popped in to check out the Harbourside Bistro. We were pleasantly surprised, outside seating on a deck overlooking the harbour, with a fresh and modern menu. Cathy had goat’s cheese and fig parcels to start and I had the fish chowder. Both were excellent.  For main we both had the pan fried hake. This was cooked to perfection and came with some colourful steamed and glazed peppers, sweet potato, leek and parsnip, mushy peas, homemade tartar sauce and chunky chips. The presentation and flavour was very reminiscent of the sorts of bistros found in small French fishing harbours: a real surprise and somewhere to return. Back on the road, the plan was to find somewhere to park up, make a brew and relax for a while before driving home.  But some dodgy road signs meant we instead spent a couple of hours driving across Anglesey down narrow country lanes! Ending up back on the A55, we instead pulled off toward the NT Penrhyn Castle. We'd visited here the last time we were in Anglesey and knew it had quiet and plentiful parking. Parked amongst the trees, Cathy made us a brew while I caught up with the blog.  Then it was back on the road to get back to the unit, unpack and clean the van.

Considering we were expecting a weekend stuck at home, this was a surprisingly relaxing weekend, just what we needed.  Thanks again Dave and Lesley for letting us take the Elddis - we had a great time and still love motorhoming!

Harbourside Bistro, Holyhead

Al fresco breakfast

In memory of Toby Bear

We've dedicated this blog of our trip to Anglesey to Toby Bear or, as we named him 'Tobias Wildebeest Stagg'. Toby was a grumpy old man of a Jack Russell, with his own special temperament.  Mad about shiny lights and chasing shadows, he was also a lovely companion and liked nothing better than cuddling up with us on the sofa when he came to us for his holidays when his Mum & Dad - Katrina & Kevin - were on holiday.  He also enjoyed his walks, although we never dare let him off his lead!  Toby had been poorly for a while but this was being treated with medication and so he continued to live a happy and pain-free life.  But that all changed last week, when his health deteriorated rapidly and Kevin & Katrina had to make the very difficult decision to put him to sleep.  The vet came on Thursday morning and, despite putting up a good fight to the very end, Toby has left us.  Visits to his house won't be the same without his enthusiastic welcome, occasionally accompanied by a grinchy growl - well he was a grumpy old man after all!  Chase those Lights in Peace Toby - goodnight our favourite furry friend. xxx

The one and only Tobias Wildebeest Stagg

Friday 7 March 2014
Once again we were in a van hired from Live the Dream Motorhome Hire, as we wait for our own van conversion to be built.  This time it was an Adria Twin SLX - a similar size and layout to our own, so we were looking forward to trying it out.  It has a fixed double bed, a mid-ships bathroom, with the shower cubicle built into the central floor area, and a half-dinette up front. With 2 gas rings, sink and fridge, this is our ideal layout for simple campervan living.  Cathy prepared and packed the van on the Friday and, when I finished work, we dropped off her car at the unit and headed off.

I had booked two nights on a 5-pitch CL site in the village of Pentraeth, overlooking Red Wharf Bay on the Isle of Anglesey.  I enjoyed the short 2 hour drive as it gave me a feel for the van - although this one is a Fiat Ducato and ours is a Citroën Relay, they're built in the same factory in Italy and the layouts are the same. We arrived at the site in darkness at about 1940, to find we have the site to ourselves.  The owner welcomed us and showed us to our pitch, telling me in the morning we'd have a lovely view down to the Bay.  I hooked up the electricity while Cathy got the kettle on and, with the blinds closed and mood lighting and heating on, we were soon snug and warm. Cathy had already cooked a chicken before we left, spatchcocked and marinaded by me the night before, and we had this with salad, bread and an organic Rose wine.  With the music playing through our wireless 'Jam' speaker, we were soon chilled out.

Saturday 8 March 2014
During the night it became quite windy outside, but we remained warm and cozy.  Saturday morning came and I was up first (as usual!) to make us a brew.  A cooked breakfast followed and we prepared for our walk.  Leaving the site we took the unadopted road alongside, which wound down to the edge of the Bay. The tide was out so we were able to follow the (sometimes very muddy!) coastal path toward the white buildings in the distance alongside the edge of Red Wharf Bay.  First we came to the Ship Inn, then the Boathouse Cafe, before we headed up the hill and away from the water's edge.  We followed the footpath down to Benllech beach and walked across the sand before stopping at the Bay Cafe - coffee for me, tea and cake for Cathy (of course!). We carried on the coastal path as it headed up onto the cliff top, twisting and turning until we reached Penrhyn. Looking back, we could clearly see the summit of Snowdon which was covered in snow - Snowdon had been snowed on!!  Here we cut through a caravan/chalet site (filled with very snooty TCPs and their many 'PRIVATE' signs) before reaching the main road.  We followed this back, stopping off at Benllech to buy some painkillers for Cathy. I was tempted by the fresh crab, lobster & smoked fish shop opposite but resisted!  The walk back along the road was very windswept, and we were glad when we were able to shoot off onto a footpath, leading across the fields, back to the CL and the warmth and quiet of the van.  With faces tight and glowing from windburn and sunshine, we had a brew and looked out at the lovely view over the bay.  Cathy had a snooze while I read my kindle, before we walked all of about 100m to the Bull Inn for some liquid refreshment.

The Bull had Doom Bar on tap - my (and now Cathy's) favourite bitter.  It was very strange being in a pub where we were the only native English speakers. From pensioners to the youngest children, they all spoke Welsh, occasionally lapsing into the odd word of English.  Back at the van, we battened down the hatches (and blinds) and prepared our dinner, whilst looking out at the bay turning paler, then darker as dusk followed by darkness descended.  Both full, with washing up done and the van tidy and locked up, Cathy crashed while I sat with a brew.  We have no phone or wifi signal here - even the iBoost couldn't connect us - so our time is spent reading, listening to music (Cara Dillon is playing now) and staring out to sea.  I did have a text this morning to to tell me my new Ukelele had been delivered - I look forward to starting my musical learning again.

Sunday 9 March 2014
Another windy night (outside!) and the morning brought dark, menacing low cloud that threatened rain. I was up at about 0800 and sat with a brew, reading while Cathy slept on.  I always like these mornings to myself in the campervan. If the weather's good I'll sit outside and listen to the birdsong; this morning I could still hear the birds, but had to sift out the sounds of the wind in the trees and hedges.  With it being so windy, all the windows and skylights have remained firmly closed to prevent them sailing off towards the Bay. Breakfast this morning was bacon butties then, washed and cleaned up, we prepared to move on.  Our usual routine is for Cathy to pack everything away inside the van, ensuring all doors, drawers and cupboards are secured.  I sort out the grey waste and empty the toilet cassette, before finally unhooking the electric cable and fighting it back into its round, nylon bag, which always looks to small to take the cable!  All ready to go, we had a chat with the owner, thanked her for the stay and headed off.

For Christmas last year, Nicola and Chris bought us a year's membership of the National Trust. This was great as we planned to join anyway.  Our thinking is that most NT properties are set in lovely countryside, they always have good, large car parks (the majority of which will be free for us) and we'll have free entry to all the houses and gardens. Ironically, one of only two properties that still charge members for parking is Tatton Park, the closest property to home! Cathy is more interested in the houses than me, but we both like the gardens, I particularly like Victorian walled kitchen gardens - maybe I was an under-gardener in a previous life!  Looking through the handbook we found a NT property close-by: Penrhyn Castle in Bangor, with lovely views over the Menai Strait from the surrounding parkland.

With plenty of space to park, we showed our membership cards and walked up past the castle to walk around the gardens.  We liked the bog garden, but the walled area was disappointing.  The castle was built in the second half of the 19th Century in a Norman style, but during the reign of Queen Victoria. She stayed at the house and refused to sleep in the 2 ton slate bed they had spent 6 months making ready for her visit - don't blame her, it looked cold and uncomfortable. As always, we liked the 'downstairs' area, the kitchens and staff quarters.  We returned to the van for tea and biscuits before heading back along the coast road to Cheshire.  We wanted to stop off on the way for fish and chips but, as with most areas of England and Wales, the Councils make campervans very unwelcome.  So we carried on to the unit to clean and return the van.

So that was our weekend in Anglesey. With no phone or wifi signal, we enjoyed the peace and quiet.  We really liked the van and it reinforced the point that we had made the right decision to go for this size and type.

PostScript: Although Toby is gone but not forgotten, he has left a large hole in Katrina and Kevin's lives. So they returned to the area where Toby was born and found one of his relatives - a 12 week old Norfolk Terrier/Jack Russell cross, who is the absolute spitting image of Toby.  He's called Pip, we met him this evening and he is absolutely delightful. He's not Toby, but if he has half his personality and brings as much joy to his owners, then all will be good with the world.

Kettle's on

View from the van down to Red Wharf Bay

View across Red Wharf Bay

The Ship Inn, Red Wharf Bay

Coffee for me, tea and cake for Cathy!

Bay Cafe, Benllech beach

Parked in Penrhyn Castle

That's what you call a roasting spit!

Back at the Live the Dream Motorhome Hire unit - time to clean up

Cleaning up