More castles and coastal park ups

Monday 22 June 2026

Nido's parked up at the campsite run by the Community Boat Club in the village of Rosehearty on the Moray coast.  We have a view of the sweeping white sandy bay next to the harbour.  We stayed here before almost three years ago and celebrated my 60th birthday here.  We're booked in for two nights and will start to head south tomorrow.

Saturday morning we took another walk around St Cyrus National Nature Reserve, this time on a trail which focuses on the flowers, plants and insect life.  It was a quiet night, only broken by Salty being sick three times in the van!  I think he may have ingested some sand and seawater when playing on the beach, which irritated his stomach.  He was still unwell yesterday morning, but with plenty of rest, some food and water, he appears to have bounced back.

Our first stop on Saturday was Castle Fraser, another NTS property not far from Inverurie.  Starting life as a simple property, by 1635 it had grown wings, storey and turrets and is now a fine looking castle.  After walking around the gardens we entered the castle.  The self-tour route took us through a number of rooms, all reached by walking up and down narrow, steep spiral staircases within the turrets. Onwards, we also stopped at Pitmedden Garden, not far from Ellon, the gardens dating back to the 17th Century.  I was all gardened-out by then, so Salty and I chilled in the van and Cathy visited on her own, which I suspect she enjoyed much more than she said!  I spent the time compiling a complaint email to EcoFlow, as our powerbank had stopped charging on 12V.  We had this problem with the first one and this was the replacement provided under warranty.  Only three years old, it's now nothing more than a heavy paperweight - very annoying.  EcoFlow have offered a partial refund and I'm just waiting to find out how much.  I'll need to order a new powerbank ready for our EU tour, but it definitely won't be an EcoFlow.

For Saturday night's stop, I had a couple of options in mind.  The first - Forvie NNR car park was full and the parking spaces were a bit small, so we carred on a short distance to Port Errol harbour. This spot is obviously popular as it was rammed full. Luckily, I usually try to pin a few options so we drove on for about half and hour to Cairnbulg harbour, just east of Fraserburgh.  Only one other van was there so we had plenty of space, parked up overlooking the sea with the harbour to our right.  The other van, with a Bulgaria registration, was owned by a lovely American couple called David and Diane, who are full-timing and were spending time in the UK to reset their Schengen clock, ready for further EU travels.  We had a great chat with them about van-life and their travels.  They're off to the Orkneys and Shetland next and we told them out our trip to the Outer Hebrides last year, a place that's on their list to visit.

Another quiet night and following a food and fuel stop at the Tesco in Fraserburgh, we arrived at Rosehearty and checked in for £10 per night, including services.  It's a popular campsite and the locals are friendly.  We had a walk along the beach later, before sitting in the warm sunshine before supper.

This morning it was a bit windier and cloudier, which still is preferable to the extreme heat some are facing in the south of England this week.  We took a walk along the coastal path, past the harbour and old RAF lookout station, stopping off at a cottage ruin before taking a long zig-zag path down to a rocky cove.  Back in the village, we stopped in the shop to buy some bread rolls and cake, enjoying a slice with a welcome pot of tea outside the van.  Supper tonight is prawn paella with a side of moules.

Castle, Mill and Nature Reserve

Friday 19 June 2026

Nido's parked up St Cyrus National Nature Reserve.  Nature Scot allow up to six vans to stay overnight for a donation of £10.  As well as normal toilets open during the day, there's a toilet disposal point, but no access to fresh water.  It's rained most of the day and is again now, although we did manage to enjoy two rainless trips out.  There's three other vans here and I suspect it'll stay quiet, as Scotland are playing in the World Cup tonight and I imagine most people will be at home or in the pub watching the game.

Yesterday we visited Kellie castle, a National Trust Scotland (NTS) property.  We joined NTS as it's cheaper than the English/Welsh version, but it still allows us to visit their properties.  The oldest parts of Kellie castle date back to the 14th century.  Its ownership passed through several familes, all of whom built on to the original building and added their own individual stamp.  The NTS bought it off the last owners - the Lorimers - in 1970.  Visits inside the castle can only be made by guided tour, so we booked on to the 1230 tour and spent and hour or so wandering round the walled garden and wildflower meadows.  The tour was interesting (some of them can be a bit dry) and not too long, about an hour.

On the way back we stopped off in Anstruther for fish and chips.  There are three 'award-winning' chippys in the town; I chose the nearest to where we parked - The Wee Chippy.  We took our haddock, chips and mushy peas back to the campsite.

This morning we left the THS after a couple of peaceful nights.  We'd been in the same area for a few days, so it was time to head further north. Driving through St Andrews (lots of snooty golf courses and resorts) and Dundee (didn't stop for cake!) we arrived at Barry Mill, just outside Carnoustie (another town that's sold its soul to golf).  We walked Salty around the woodlands, but he was spooked by the bird scarers in nearby fields, so he spent the rest of our time there safe inside the van.  A mill has stood on this spot since the 12th century.  This particular mill dates back to the early 19th century, when it was rebuilt in 1815 following a fire.  It closed in the early 1980s and fell into rapid decline before NTS took it on in 1988.  We tagged on to an earlier tour group and were lucky enough to see (and hear) the mill in operation; the only have it working on Fridays.

We continued driving north through heavy run, through Montrose and along a very pot-holed single track to St Cyrus.  Thankfully the rain held off to allow us to walk over the dunes and on to a long sandy beach, which we had to ourselves. On the horizon were a few oil rig support ships.  Salty enjoyed a run around and a dip in the sea and we returned to the van on a different trail, watching out for any peregrines around the tall cliffs just inland, formed at the same time as local volcanic activity.  Cathy made a Greek salad for supper, so feeling virtuous after lots of greenery, we also had a creme caramel each!

Tomorrow we'll continue north along the coast and plan to visit a couple more NTS sites. The weather's set to improve from tomorrow and stay warm and dry for the next week, but thankfully not as hot as some will suffer further south.

The Burgh of Culross, Dysart and onwards

Wednesday 17 June 2026

Nido's parked up on a Camping and Caravanning Site Temporary Holiday Site (THS), overlooking the Firth of Forth, between Anstruther and Crail.  The Isle of May is visible through the windscreen.  This is an area I've sailed through many times when my ship - HMS WESTMINSTER - was in refit in Rosyth for 15 months.  Throughout that period, work took precedence and I had little time to explore the local area, but I'm making up for it now.  it's £12.50 per night, with full facilities, so we're booked in for a couple of nights, to use this as a base to explore the local area.

Overnight on Monday/Tuesday in Hayton was very quiet, except for the haunting cry of a Barn Owl hunting in the fields just outside the van.  Leaving yesterday morning, our journey took us up the M74, over the Kincardine bridge and onwards to the Royal Burgh of Culross.  This is Scotland’s most complete example of a burgh of the 17th and 18th centuries.  White-harled houses with red-tiled rooves line the steep cobbled streets which run from the market cross to the hilltop abbey.  In the centre is the ochre-coloured palace with its beautifully reconstructed period garden, complete with herbs, fruit and vegetables.  The palace only allows 8 visitors per 15 minutes to reduce the stress on its timber floors and by the time we arrived it was over an hour's wait.  So we decided to leave the palace tour for another visit and instead walked the steep cobbled tracks, overlooking the palace garden.  As we walked up the narrow, walled lanes, to wander around the old Abbey and Monastery,  it reminded us of a cross between Le Roque Gageac and St Circ Lapopie in the Dordogne.

Onwards, we drove east and parked up in Dysart harbour, just outside Kircaldy, joining three other vans.  The harbour and coastal path had taken a battering during recent storms and and the sea wall and defences were in the process of being rebuilt.  Ready for a walk, we followed the coastal path around the harbour, through a low tunnel and up past defensive walls and mature trees, eventually reaching the ruins of Ravenscraig Castle.  With only about 10 minutes before it was locked up for the night, our visit was brief!  Backtracking, we relaxed in the van with supper and an early night.

Overnight the wind increased and it rained until about 0700, when I took Salty out to chase rabbits (not really - he was on a lead!).  Our first stop heading along the coast was West Wemyss, for a mooch around the harbour.  Then followed a (expensive) food shop in the Sainsburys in Leven, before driving to Ruby Bay near Elie.  Day parking is only £2, with the option to park overnight for £15; with the toilet emptying point closed, this was an expensive option.  After a quick lunch we enjoyed a walk to the lighthouse, past the volcano lava outflow and onto the beach.  About 10 minutes drive and we were parked up by Pittenweem tidal pool.  With a stiff onshore breeze, it didn't look very enticing, but maybe on a warm summer's evening. It's possible to overnight in the car park for £10.

Pittenweem Tidal Pool

Tonight's park up was only another 10 minutes up the road and we spent the afternoon sat in the lee of the van to avoid a strong breeze, but taking advantage of the unexpected sunshine.  It's very quiet now and the Isle of May is lit by the evening sunshine as it sets behind us.  

Scotland Tour 2026

Monday 15 June 2026

Nido's parked up at a new stopover at Hayton Hideways, a short distance from the village of Hayton in Cumbria.  It's only about 5 minutes drive off Junction 43 of the M6 around the Carlisle area, so just south of the Scottish border.  This park-up has only been open for a couple of months, but I think it'll be well used, particularly for travellers like us who want to break their journey.  The owners already have a successful camping pods business, but a few people had suggested opening a motorhome stopover.  It's a little like an aire; a level hardstanding area of about 50m2, with fresh water and a toilet disposal point.  It's very quiet here, surrounded by fields and hedgerows, with some hills in the distance.  I'm sure we'll use it again when visiting Scotland.

We always enjoy visiting Scotland and come up every year.  The rough plan for this trip is to cross over the Forth road bridge, then turn right and follow the coastal route through Fife and East Neuk, then continuing up the coast into Aberdeenshire, the Moray Firth and back down the eastern side of the Cairngorms.  I've researched a few stops, mainly in coastal villages and a couple of C&CC temporary holiday sites, plus our favourite stops in the Cairngorms.  We aim to be away for about two weeks, but don't need to rush back if we get to that point and still have places to visit.

We left home at about 1030 this morning and endured the busy M6, with a quick lunch stop on the way up.  Arriving here at about 3.30pm, we were met by the friendly owner - Dan - who showed us around and pointed out the footpath to the nearby village of Hayton.  After a cup of tea sat out in warm sunshine, we walked to the village, past a children's playground and the church.  Hayton is a quaint village, with lots of sandstone cottages, many with well kept gardens.  The local pub - the Stone Inn - looked welcoming but unfortunately it was too early in the day for a quick pint!  Back at the van, we sat out to eat and spent the rest of the evening relaxing in the peace and quiet, recovering from the hectic M6 journey.

Tomorrow we'll cross the border into Scotland and hope to be parked up somewhere on the Fife coastline by mid-afternoon.

Portpatrick and Laurieston Forest

Saturday 20 September 2025

Nido's wild-camping at a rural parking area at Orton Quarry, a few miles off the M6 north east from Tebay.  It's absolutely tipping down and we're here with another motorhome.  The rain started as we crossed the border into England, but it's due to stop in the early hours and tomorrow promises to be a dry and sunny day.

Yesterday we visited the harbour town of Portpatrick, a small village in southwestern Scotland, historically significant as a port for ferries crossing to Ireland. Its development began in the 18th century, with the construction of a harbour to support trade and fishing. The village's strategic location made it a key stop for maritime activity, particularly during the 19th century when it was a vital link between Scotland and Ireland. Over time, Portpatrick evolved into a popular tourist destination, renowned for its scenic beauty and historical charm, including remnants of its maritime past.

First we walked up the steep steps and along a narrow bridge to the ruins of Dunskey castle. It dates back to the 16th century and was likely built by the Adair family. Positioned on a rugged cliff overlooking the sea, it played a defensive role and became a symbol of the region’s power and influence. The castle’s design reflects typical Scottish strongholds of the time, with thick walls and narrow windows. By the 18th century, Dunskey fell into disrepair, and much of its structure was lost to time and erosion. Today, the castle’s ruins remain a picturesque landmark on a dramatic coastal promontory.  We took our time exploring and trying to guess what would have been in each room and tower.  

Back in the village, we walked around the harbour to the RNLI station, watching the waves crash on the rocks, before returning to the van for lunch.  Our next stop was to be a wild camp in the forest, but first we stopped in Castle Douglas to get an Indian takeaway meal. Fifteen minutes later we were parked up alone in Laurieston Forest. The indian meal was delicious and it was soon dark with no sounds apart from the owls I heard when taking Salty out for his last walk of the evening.

This morning we walked the one mile circular walk that follows Kenick Burn.  The trees were dripping with dark green moss and there were loads of different fungi on the ground and fallen tree trunks.  The burn was flowing well after several days of rain and, apart from one section at the end, we managed to avoid any wet paths.    

Leaving our wild-camping spot, we drove to the Threave Nature Reserve and enjoyed following the trail around the river and wetlands, with several wildlife hides, plus a view of Threave castle on the opposite bank.

I'd found a car park in Dumfries where I hoped we could have lunch and take a walk, but being Saturday it was busy and all the parking was taken, so after a quick fill of diesel (enough to get us home), we drove on to this spot, with the aim of having a shorter journey tomorrow.

This is our last night of this trip and we'll be heading off early to drive home tomorrow.  Thankfully the weather forecast is much better so the drive should be easier.  We've really enjoyed almost a month in Scotland, despite some inclement weather.  The Outer Hebrides were amazing and, with the four ferry journeys, it did feel like a proper trip away.  We had a handful of warm sunny days and made the most of them, but even in the wind and rain, the islands and particularly the beaches were stunning.

Parked up on an airfield

Thursday 18 September 2025

Nido's parked up on the Scar Park CAMpRA aire, overlooking Stranraer and the two ferry ports.  This used to be an RAF Seaplane base and the five huge pitches are on the concrete plane parking spots.  Our nearest van neighbour is therefore at least 50m away!  It's a bit grey and drizzly but the views are still excellent and I can hear curlews calling on the low tide areas.

After leaving the Highfield campsite our next planned stop was in the town of Largs, on a free motorhome parking area next to the Yacht Haven. On the way we stopped at Lochwinnoch - with a view of the loch - for lunch.  It was quite a busy place and the huge piles of goose poo on the pavement sort of put us off having a walk!  It was quite warm out when we parked up in Largs and we walked along the promenade towards the town.  We fancied fish and chips for tea, but they were a 35 minute walk away (each way) and we wanted to eat them in the van, so it would have meant driving into town and finding (difficult to find) parking close to the chippy.  Also, whilst the park up was level and seemed safe, it didn't have a view and we weren't really feeling it.

Instead we drove another 20 minutes down the road to another free park up, this time in a car park next to Saltcoats harbour and looking directly west over the sea.  Saltcoats, a coastal town in North Ayrshire, Scotland, grew from a small medieval settlement known for salt panning, which gave the town its name. By the 17th century, it expanded into a hub for fishing and handloom weaving, later developing strong ties to shipbuilding and coal exports. Its sandy beaches and railway links transformed Saltcoats into a popular Victorian seaside resort, attracting visitors from Glasgow and beyond. Although heavy industries declined in the 20th century, the town remains part of the "Three Towns" area with Ardrossan and Stevenston, preserving its maritime heritage and seaside character.

The  chippy was just across the road from the park up, so that was ideal.  The fish and chips were tasty and cheap and afterwards we took a walk along the harbour wall, ducking from the occasional waves breaking over the top!  During the night the wind really picked up, but it was a quiet spot and we slept well.

This morning it took about 50 minutes to drive to Culzean Castle and Gardens, a NT Scotland property on the coast near Maybole.  Culzean Castle, perched on Ayrshire’s coast, was transformed in the late 18th century by architect Robert Adam for David Kennedy, 10th Earl of Cassillis. Built on the site of an older fortified tower, it became a grand example of Scottish baronial style, blending elegance with dramatic coastal views. The surrounding gardens and parkland, landscaped with woodlands and follies, enhanced its status as a showcase estate. In 1945, the Kennedy family gifted the castle to the National Trust for Scotland, granting U.S. President Eisenhower an apartment in recognition of wartime support.

We arrived early so there was plenty of space to park our van.  We did notice later, however, that a couple of larger motorhomes had to park across 2 - 3 parking spaces as none of them were long enough; NTS would benefit from creating some dedicated motorhome parking.  We weren't bothered about visiting inside the castle, but we did enjoy our walk around the large estate and gardens, in particular the walled garden and greenhouses were lovely.  We spent almost 3 hours walking around before returning to the van for a well-earned lunch.

On the drive to the Scar Park aire, we passed the Trump Turnberry golf resort.  It's a really weird place, looking like they've picked up fancy houses and buildings from Florida and just dropped them into this windswept part of the southern Scottish coast; they looked really out of place.   

As I'd already pre-booked and paid for the aire, we drove along the concrete runway to Pitch 5, which is the closest to the sea.  Having had lunch we're not feeling hungry so may just have something light later and catch up on YouTube.  In the meantime I'm enjoying looking out over the bay and watching the wading birds.