Portpatrick and Laurieston Forest

Saturday 20 September 2025

Nido's wild-camping at a rural parking area at Orton Quarry, a few miles off the M6 north east from Tebay.  It's absolutely tipping down and we're here with another motorhome.  The rain started as we crossed the border into England, but it's due to stop in the early hours and tomorrow promises to be a dry and sunny day.

Yesterday we visited the harbour town of Portpatrick, a small village in southwestern Scotland, historically significant as a port for ferries crossing to Ireland. Its development began in the 18th century, with the construction of a harbour to support trade and fishing. The village's strategic location made it a key stop for maritime activity, particularly during the 19th century when it was a vital link between Scotland and Ireland. Over time, Portpatrick evolved into a popular tourist destination, renowned for its scenic beauty and historical charm, including remnants of its maritime past.

First we walked up the steep steps and along a narrow bridge to the ruins of Dunskey castle. It dates back to the 16th century and was likely built by the Adair family. Positioned on a rugged cliff overlooking the sea, it played a defensive role and became a symbol of the region’s power and influence. The castle’s design reflects typical Scottish strongholds of the time, with thick walls and narrow windows. By the 18th century, Dunskey fell into disrepair, and much of its structure was lost to time and erosion. Today, the castle’s ruins remain a picturesque landmark on a dramatic coastal promontory.  We took our time exploring and trying to guess what would have been in each room and tower.  

Back in the village, we walked around the harbour to the RNLI station, watching the waves crash on the rocks, before returning to the van for lunch.  Our next stop was to be a wild camp in the forest, but first we stopped in Castle Douglas to get an Indian takeaway meal. Fifteen minutes later we were parked up alone in Laurieston Forest. The indian meal was delicious and it was soon dark with no sounds apart from the owls I heard when taking Salty out for his last walk of the evening.

This morning we walked the one mile circular walk that follows Kenick Burn.  The trees were dripping with dark green moss and there were loads of different fungi on the ground and fallen tree trunks.  The burn was flowing well after several days of rain and, apart from one section at the end, we managed to avoid any wet paths.    

Leaving our wild-camping spot, we drove to the Threave Nature Reserve and enjoyed following the trail around the river and wetlands, with several wildlife hides, plus a view of Threave castle on the opposite bank.

I'd found a car park in Dumfries where I hoped we could have lunch and take a walk, but being Saturday it was busy and all the parking was taken, so after a quick fill of diesel (enough to get us home), we drove on to this spot, with the aim of having a shorter journey tomorrow.

This is our last night of this trip and we'll be heading off early to drive home tomorrow.  Thankfully the weather forecast is much better so the drive should be easier.  We've really enjoyed almost a month in Scotland, despite some inclement weather.  The Outer Hebrides were amazing and, with the four ferry journeys, it did feel like a proper trip away.  We had a handful of warm sunny days and made the most of them, but even in the wind and rain, the islands and particularly the beaches were stunning.