Tried it twice and didn't like it

Sunday 9 June 2013

Well, that title got your attention didn't it?  Wash out your dirty minds!  We're parked on an ACSI campsite in the village of Brantome, in the Perigord Vert region of the Dordogne.  It's a lovely, peaceful spot and we're about 30 ft from the River Dronne.  This is one of the best chub rivers in France and I didn't bring my fishing tackle!

The reason for the title is this is our second campsite this trip and Cathy is most definitely unimpressed with the ablutions, particularly as the shower cubicles are mixed! Combine this with luke warm showers and no room to swing a cat, she's had enough of campsites and is happy to use the onboard facilities from now on.  The only reasons we came to a campsite were for electric hook-up to charge up our various gadgets - mainly the kindles and camera battery, but also to grab some wi-fi time. This site has wi-fi coverage all over, so I'm sat in the van under full lighting writing this. Normally I'd be typing in darkness to save our batteries.

We both woke at about 0700 this morning, mainly due to the village church bells going all Tourettes on us - I counted the dongs (ooh er missus!) and stopped counting at 23, so decided it was time to get up.  Cathy wanted to go off for a walk and do some sketching and I wanted to head out on the bike.  She had a great walk above the town and apparently could have walked for miles in the countryside - definitely something we'll do when we return.  But it was her turn for morning baguette fetching, so she cut short her travels.  I headed out following the Dordogne, out of the village and into open countryside.  It was rolling hills so the short inclines were followed by some fast, freewheeling fun.  I was out for about an hour and covered about 17 miles. The scenery was glorious - honeycomb-coloured stone buildings between the river and the cliffs, plus many chateaux high up on the hills.  Returning to the van I had a chat with the elderly couple in the van next door.  They spend half the year in the Isle of Man, and the remaining half living in their house outside Limoges, plus travelling in their motorhome - sounds idyllic.  After breakfast of eggs and baguette I cleaned the bike, sprayed it with WD40 and fastened it back on the rack at the back of the van.  A quick shower, fluids topped upped and emptied, we headed off.

After buying a few victuals for the day, we drove up the hill to Jardins de Marqueyssac, just a couple of km away.  The gardens and chateaux sit on top of a wooded gorge that rises above the Dordogne.  It's quirky and maze-like, reminding me a little of Portmerion. Although the gardens were originally laid out in the seventeenth century, they were extensively restored in the 1990s.  Three paths lead through the grounds to the Belvedere, jutting out from the cliff with fantastic views over the river towards La Roque-Gageac and, in the opposite direction, Castelnaud.  We spent a few hours wandering around - it was very warm and sultry and, although sunny, we expected rain.

Leaving the gardens we headed North West towards our current stop in Brantome. This is one of the most tranquil and beautiful parts of the Dordogne, with water-lilied and weeping willowed riverside gardens.  Dinner was grilled lamb chops with garlic, rosemary and (Anglesey) sea salt, with a homemade ratatouille.  We plan to have a walk around the town tomorrow before heading off to the Atlantic Coast.  We're ready for some seaside time now and I'm definitely ready for some seafood. The cicadas are in full voice outside, so once I've added the photos and uploaded the blog it'll be time to crash out until Cathy kicks me out in the morning to fetch our breakfast baguette, pre-ordered from reception.

My French doghouse!

Preparing dinner while the blog uploads on wi-fi

A great chub river -must take my tackle next time

Third Time Lucky

Saturday 8 June 2013

We're parked in an Aire in the village of La Roque Gageac, right next to the Dordogne river in the Dordogne region.  It's a beautiful spot with the river one one side and high cliffs on the other.  The old houses and the chateau, which shelter under the overhanging cliffs, are made of a lovely ochre-coloured sandstone, with steep, sometimes turreted slate rooves. There are also a number of large caves above the houses which suggests some troglodyte occupation in the past. There about 12 other vans here, with room for 20, but if it was full it'd be very cosy and we wouldn't get out until those around us shifted.

We had planned to stay at another Aire in the village of Domme, but on arrival we saw all the pitches are heavily sloped, not even our ramps would have helped.  So we plugged in the co-ordinates for another, in the village of Montfort Vitrac, again next to the river.  But there were no signs or sight of the Aire, despite trying every road leading off the main road.  We think it no longer exists - maybe the local campsite owner pressurised the Marie to shut it down.  So instead we headed 8 minutes up the road to this one and I'm so glad we did as it's beautiful and peaceful - Third Time Lucky.

We were awake early this morning and, after a quick brew, drove off, planning to head for Rodez.  On the way we stopped off at the McDonalds in Millau to use their free wifi to upload the blog and send & receive emails.  The wifi was good but the food was rubbish! We stopped off in Rodez for lunch, the capital of the Aveyron region, with a large hill-top cathedral and old town.  We were expecting to find old squares filled with restaurants, but there was a distinct lack of eateries.  We ended up in a 'British' pub, but eating great French food, plus the Criterium du Dauphine bike race was on Eurosport - result!

We had planned to stay near the medieval village of Conques tonight, which was famous for being on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. However it had turned cloudy and it was starting to rain heavily, so we decided to continue to head west whilst the weather was dodgy.  And so now we're enjoying the peace and quiet.  It's still cloudy, although it's breaking and it's very warm out - thunderstorm weather?

Today on our journey we passed the village of Roquefort, famous for the cheese which gives you dreams if eaten in excess, plus the town of Agen, famous for the prunes which give you the sh..... - er keep you regular - if eaten in excess.  We're now in foie gras, confit de canard and walnut country.  Oh and Bergerac wine.  I had to buy a bottle to get change for the parking meter, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered - honest!

This evening, we took a pre-dinner stroll up the tiny alleyways between and above the houses.  There is some beautiful planting, including palm trees and huge bamboos, as well as many grapevines.  With roses, honeysuckle and jasmine, Cathy tells me the scent was amazing (I still have no sense of taste or smell, which is killing my gastronomic experience).  We're now back at the van, having eating a light meal and enjoying a glass of fizz.  There's two French families opposite, with an awning between their vans and large dining table under, enjoying a noisy but fun-filled dinner.  It's nice to see them having fun and the children running around, much better than Those Caravan People, or TCPs as they're now known to us!  Tomorrow we want to take a walk along the river before breakfast and then maybe visit Jardins de Marqueyssac, about 6km from here, sitting high on the cliffs overlooking the Dordogne and our current Aire.  After that we'll decide where to head next, but I think we'll stay in this area, or certainly around maybe Bergerac for a couple of days - it's lovely.

Thought for the day: What's the etiquette for waving at other motorhomes as they drive past?  We were waved at on our first day in France and now reciprocate, waving at all vans we pass.  Some return the wave (or beat us to it), some don't, or perhaps they just don't see it.  And does the type of wave signify something?  Some wave frantically as if to say "isn't this fun!?", same give a full palm out hand raise (like a policeman signalling you to stop) and some just raise one finger whilst their hand stays on the steering wheel (are these the experienced, cool camper vanners who have passed the advanced waving course?). I also wonder if the TCPs wave to each other - they certainly like shouting on campsites.

Aire at La Roque Gageac

Aire from path above the village